A basic valet and wax to keep the vehicle fresh
Small/medium car
Large car
SUV
Van/Pickup or larger
Estimated Time: 1 hour
All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.
A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.
To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.
We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.
The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,
Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.
Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.
We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.
We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps. We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.
The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.
Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.
If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.
We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.
Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.
Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.
Firstly we make sure the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.
The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.
The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.
We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.
These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.
Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.
There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.
For our wheel face clean, we still make sure we offer extremely high quality.
Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the wheel face and tyre, making sure the get into the small gaps between spokes etc. For this level of wheel clean, we go up to the barrel of the wheel, meaning every part which is easily visible, is cleaned.
Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.
The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.
The wheels will be left clean, shiny, and ready for polishing or coating.
All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.
We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean a microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn`t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.
Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.
Vehicle wax is available in many different forms and applications, with various purposes and attributes.
The purpose of our hydrophobic wax is to add gloss and to repel water and dirt from the paintwork of the vehicle. It will make water bead off the car which in turn, will take dirt with it. This means your vehicle will stay cleaner for longer.
To apply this wax, we first make sure the vehicle is cleaned properly. Then we liberally spray the vehicle with the hydrophobic wax whilst it is still wet. Then it is rinsed off once cured. The important part of applying wax is to make sure the product does not dry on the vehicle, and is thoroughly rinsed off. If care isn’t taken, then residue can be left, especially in panel gaps and crevices.
Your vehicle will be left looking glossy and the water will simply bead off.
A deep decontamination and 6 months protection
Small/medium car
Large car
SUV
Van/Pickup or larger
Estimated Time: 3 hours
All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.
A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.
To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.
We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.
The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,
Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.
Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.
We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.
We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.
The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.
Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.
If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.
We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.
Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.
Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.
Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.
The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process, for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.
The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.
The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.
We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.
These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.
Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.
There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.
For our wheel face clean, we still make sure we offer extremely high quality.
Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the wheel face and tyre, making sure the get into the small gaps between spokes etc. For this level of wheel clean, we go up to the barrel of the wheel, meaning every part which is easily visible, is cleaned.
Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.
The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.
The wheels will be left clean, shiny, and ready for polishing or coating.
All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.
We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean a microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn`t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.
Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.
All vehicles will be affected by tar spots. These are small black dots which appear on the vehicle, usually on the lower half of the bodywork, and near wheel arches. They are caused by hot road bitumen or tarmac. When the road is hot in the summer, or newly laid during construction or pot hole repair, tiny spots of the road will fly up and dry hard onto the vehicle.
These not only look awful but if left, they can etch themselves through the paintwork. This is done when the tar expands and contracts during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.
They are also quite difficult to remove so many inferior valeters just ignore these tar spots. The reason they are difficult to remove is because standard cleaning chemicals simply do not work. A specialised tar remover must be used and care must be taken. If the tar remover is left to dry it can damage the bodywork. Also, if too much force is used, this will cause scratches to the vehicles paintwork and trim.
If the tar is not removed this will cause any ceramic or graphene coating to fail, as the surface needs to be fully decontaminated. We always take extra care and attention when removing tar spots to ensure the highest quality is safely achieved without damaging the vehicle.
Iron fallout is the name given to metal dust and particles which stick to the vehicle.
It is caused by brake dust and industrial factors which is made airborne when a vehicle passes over it. These metal particles stick firmly to the paintwork, glass and trim etc. Some of them are not visible, but some are obvious light brown or red dots.
They are not only rough to the touch and make paintwork look dirty and dull, but also damage the vehicle long term. Damage is caused mainly by the particles etching themselves into the paintwork. This is done when the particles expand and contract during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.
Iron fallout cannot be removed by standard valeting chemicals. A specific iron fallout remover must be used. A good quality fallout remover is expensive and smells disgusting, so many valeters do not use it. We use a high quality fallout remover, and take extreme care when using it, to make sure of the best results for our customers. We make sure the product is fully removed from the vehicle as if it is left in seals or crevices, residue will dry and be very hard to remove.
The vehicle will be left with brighter, smoother paintwork, whilst being free from iron contaminants. This is a crucial step to complete before polishing or ceramic coating etc.
All vehicles will pick up contaminants over time, some clearly visible, some smaller.
A clay bar is a small putty-like substance which is carefully rubbed all over the car’s paintwork and glass. As it passes over the surface, the clay sticks to and removes all sorts of contaminants which are embedded into the pores of the top coat. This can be anything from oils, tar, or fallout which regular washing does not remove.
To complete this we first must thoroughly wash the vehicle. Then we remove as much of the large contaminants such as tar and iron fallout. Once this is completed we can then use the clay. The vehicle will be wet, and a clay lubricant is used to prevent abrasiveness. The clay is rubbed lightly over a small area at a time in a crosshatch pattern.The clay is remoulded between each area, to avoid excess build up of contaminants on the surface of the clay. Then the vehicle is thoroughly rinsed and dried.
Once it is complete, the vehicle will be very smooth with the paintwork “popping” with colour because there are no contaminants left to dull the paint.
This is a crucial step to complete before polishing, waxing or ceramic coating.
Lots of people have heard of car wax, or know people who use it.
There are two main types of waxes commonly used, “natural” and “polymer”. Natural wax includes products like carnauba and bees wax. These are easy to apply and give a nice gloss, but they only last 1-2 months.
Polymer waxes are man made waxes which include ingredients like Si02 and graphene. These waxes offer a much longer lifespan of 6-9 months. They offer protection from UV rays, acid rain, water spots, and traffic film. Polymer waxes also give great shine and depth to the paintwork, whilst making water aggressively bead from the vehicle.
The polymer wax works by sitting on top of the vehicle’s top coat of paint. It fills in the microscopic pores of the top coat meaning the surface will be left smooth and shiny.
The vehicle must first be completely decontaminated. This is to ensure the wax adheres to the surface evenly and on all areas. Once the vehicle is decontaminated and dry, a small amount of wax is added to a soft applicator. It is massaged carefully into the paintwork, a small area at a time. Then the wax is left to cure. The time it takes can depend on lots of factors, from panel temperature, wind speed and the type of wax. Once it is cured, we gently buff off the wax with a plush microfibre.
The whole process cannot be rushed, and care must be taken. If not, the wax will either not cure properly, meaning it won`t last very long, or it will cure too much and leave a concrete like haze over the paintwork. This can be very hard to remove and will mean starting the whole process again.
When done properly, a good quality polymer wax will leave your vehicle extremely shiny glossy with a real depth and pop to the paintwork.
A deep decontamination with a machine polish and 6 months protection
Small/medium car
Large car
SUV
Van/Pickup or larger
Estimated Time: 5 hours
All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.
A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.
To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.
We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.
The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,
Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.
Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.
We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.
We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.
The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.
Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.
If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.
We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.
Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.
Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.
Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.
The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process, for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.
The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.
The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.
We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.
These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.
The bonnet shuts is the area between the engine bay and the bodywork of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the bonnet is open. This means it often gets overlooked when valeting.
We make sure this area is cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud from leaking onto the body work when being driven after we leave
These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.
Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.
There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.
For our wheel face clean, we still make sure we offer extremely high quality.
Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the wheel face and tyre, making sure the get into the small gaps between spokes etc. For this level of wheel clean, we go up to the barrel of the wheel, meaning every part which is easily visible, is cleaned.
Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.
The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.
The wheels will be left clean, shiny, and ready for polishing or coating.
All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.
We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean a microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn`t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.
Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.
All vehicles will be affected by tar spots. These are small black dots which appear on the vehicle, usually on the lower half of the bodywork, and near wheel arches. They are caused by hot road bitumen or tarmac. When the road is hot in the summer, or newly laid during construction or pot hole repair, tiny spots of the road will fly up and dry hard onto the vehicle.
These not only look awful but if left, they can etch themselves through the paintwork. This is done when the tar expands and contracts during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.
They are also quite difficult to remove so many inferior valeters just ignore these tar spots. The reason they are difficult to remove is because standard cleaning chemicals simply do not work. A specialised tar remover must be used and care must be taken. If the tar remover is left to dry it can damage the bodywork. Also, if too much force is used, this will cause scratches to the vehicles paintwork and trim.
If the tar is not removed this will cause any ceramic or graphene coating to fail, as the surface needs to be fully decontaminated. We always take extra care and attention when removing tar spots to ensure the highest quality is safely achieved without damaging the vehicle.
Iron fallout is the name given to metal dust and particles which stick to the vehicle.
It is caused by brake dust and industrial factors which is made airborne when a vehicle passes over it. These metal particles stick firmly to the paintwork, glass and trim etc. Some of them are not visible, but some are obvious light brown or red dots.
They are not only rough to the touch and make paintwork look dirty and dull, but also damage the vehicle long term. Damage is caused mainly by the particles etching themselves into the paintwork. This is done when the particles expand and contract during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.
Iron fallout cannot be removed by standard valeting chemicals. A specific iron fallout remover must be used. A good quality fallout remover is expensive and smells disgusting, so many valeters do not use it. We use a high quality fallout remover, and take extreme care when using it, to make sure of the best results for our customers. We make sure the product is fully removed from the vehicle as if it is left in seals or crevices, residue will dry and be very hard to remove.
The vehicle will be left with brighter, smoother paintwork, whilst being free from iron contaminants. This is a crucial step to complete before polishing or ceramic coating etc.
All vehicles will pick up contaminants over time, some clearly visible, some smaller.
A clay bar is a small putty-like substance which is carefully rubbed all over the car’s paintwork and glass. As it passes over the surface, the clay sticks to and removes all sorts of contaminants which are embedded into the pores of the top coat. This can be anything from oils, tar, or fallout which regular washing does not remove.
To complete this we first must thoroughly wash the vehicle. Then we remove as much of the large contaminants such as tar and iron fallout. Once this is completed we can then use the clay. The vehicle will be wet, and a clay lubricant is used to prevent abrasiveness. The clay is rubbed lightly over a small area at a time in a crosshatch pattern.The clay is remoulded between each area, to avoid excess build up of contaminants on the surface of the clay. Then the vehicle is thoroughly rinsed and dried.
Once it is complete, the vehicle will be very smooth with the paintwork “popping” with colour because there are no contaminants left to dull the paint.
This is a crucial step to complete before polishing, waxing or ceramic coating.
There are many different types of machine polishing. They use different tools and products to tackle different issues offering various results.
The main purpose of a “quick machine polish” is to give the vehicle’s paintwork extra clarity, depth and shine. This is achieved by removing (or cutting) a microscopic layer from the top coat or clear coat of paint.
For any type of polishing, the surface must be prepared correctly. We must make sure the paintwork is clean, dry, and free from contamination. If the paintwork is not perfectly clean and dry, then the polishing process can severely damage the paintwork. This is because grit and contaminants will be caught in the polishing pad and dragged over the paintwork. This will cause deep scratches and serious problems.
When we are ready to start polishing, we must choose the correct grade of polisher, compound and pad for the situation and condition of paint. We have years of experience to ensure we get the most out of the process. We polish the vehicle a small area at a time, usually 1-2 feet square. We move the polisher carefully around any swage lines and edges. This is to avoid any damage to the paint.
Severe damage can be caused if the detailer does not take care, or have the relevant skill and experience. If the paint gets too hot, the polishing pad isn’t positioned correctly, too much pressure is used, or its not delivered in a smooth and even fashion, the paint will burn. Once the paint has been burnt, then the only way to repair it is to repaint it, which can be very expensive. We take extreme caution when polishing any vehicle, and train our team to the highest standard, to ensure there are never any issues.
With our “quick polish” we cover 95% of the vehicle. This includes the roof, bonnet, boot, doors and bumpers. Small areas such as door handles, door shuts and other tight to reach areas are not covered in the particular level of polish. However, we do offer this in our other levels.
The vehicle will be left extremely bright, glossy and have depth to the paintwork. It will also be ready to apply any ceramic coating or wax etc.
Lots of people have heard of car wax, or know people who use it.
There are two main types of waxes commonly used, “natural” and “polymer”. Natural wax includes products like carnauba and bees wax. These are easy to apply and give a nice gloss, but they only last 1-2 months.
Polymer waxes are man made waxes which include ingredients like Si02 and graphene. These waxes offer a much longer lifespan of 6-9 months. They offer protection from UV rays, acid rain, water spots, and traffic film. polymer waxes also give great shine and depth to the paintwork, whilst making water aggressively bead from the vehicle.
The polymer wax works by sitting on top of the vehicle’s top coat of paint. It fills in the microscopic pores of the top coat meaning the surface will be left smooth and shiny.
The vehicle must first be completely decontaminated. This is to ensure the wax adheres to the surface evenly and on all areas. Once the vehicle is decontaminated and dry, a small amount of wax is added to a soft applicator. It is massaged carefully into the paintwork, a small area at a time. Then the wax is left to cure. The time it takes can depend on lots of factors, from panel temperature, wind speed and the type of wax. Once it is cured, we gently buff off the wax with a plush microfibre.
The whole process cannot be rushed, and care must be taken. If not, the wax will either not cure properly, meaning it won`t last very long, or it will cure too much and leave a concrete like haze over the paintwork. This can be very hard to remove and will mean starting the whole process again.
When done properly, a good quality polymer wax will leave your vehicle extremely shiny glossy with a real depth and pop to the paintwork.
Machine polish with a ceramic coating for paintwork
Small/medium car
Large car
SUV
Van/Pickup or larger
Estimated Time: 8 hours
All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.
A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.
To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.
We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.
The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,
Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.
Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.
We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.
We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.
The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.
Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.
If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.
We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.
Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.
The reason we blow dry crevices on the vehicle is because some areas are too small to reach with a drying towel.
If the water is left in the crevices, then it will eventually leak onto the bodywork and could leave dirt, grime and water marks. This is especially common from wing mirrors and the front grill.
We use a blow drying which filters the air, to avoid grit being thrown onto the vehicle causing scratches. Then we simply use a soft drying towel where the water is exposed.
This seems like a simple step but it is crucial when the highest quality is needed.
Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.
Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.
The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process, for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.
The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.
The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.
We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.
These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.
The bonnet shuts is the area between the engine bay and the bodywork of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the bonnet is open. This means it often gets overlooked when valeting.
We make sure this area is cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud from leaking onto the body work when being driven after we leave
These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.
Exhaust tips will always get extremely dirty due to the nature of the combustion engine.
It will get covered in dirt, smoke, and soot which can spoil the look of the whole rear end of the vehicle. It is also extremely difficult to clean.
We use specially designed products which help remove the contamination from the exhaust tip, along with specific tools which are designed for the job.
Your exhaust will be left clean and shiny adding a nice detail to your vehicle.
Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.
There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.
For our thorough wheel clean we ensure the whole wheel is left sparkling clean, including the inside barrel. Also we fully decontaminate the whole wheel.
Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the entire wheel and tyre, making sure to clean into the small gaps between and behind the spokes etc. We make sure every inch of the wheel is free from dirt and brake dust, including the barrel.
For a thorough wheel clean you must also decontaminate the wheel fully. Once the pre wash and standard PH neutral wheel cleaner is used, we remove any tar from the wheel. This is small dots of road bitumen or tarmac which melt onto the wheel. We use specialised tar remover and various tools to remove the tar which regular wheel cleaner cannot remove. Secondly we use a specific iron fallout remover. This chemical reacts with any iron particles which are still on the wheel. They are caused by brake dust particles which can be very stubborn to remove. The first wheel cleaner will remove most of the brake dust but a concentrated iron fallout remover gets to the very stubborn iron contaminants which can be embedded into the wheel. Once the wheel is decontaminated, we thoroughly rinse the wheel to ensure there’s no contaminants left behind. We take our time to inspect the wheel ensuring the highest quality.
Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.
The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.
The wheels will be left clean, shiny, fully decontaminated and ready for polishing or coating.
Wheel wax is a product specifically designed to keep your wheels cleaner for longer.
Many people may use a standard vehicle wax on the wheels, but this is ineffective, due to the high temperatures created by your brakes. The temperatures around the wheels is higher than the rest of the vehicle, meaning standard wax will have a much shorter lifespan.
We use a high quality wax which is specifically designed for wheels. It can endure much higher temperatures than normal wax, meaning it will last 1-2 months, so it`s great for maintenance valets.
Once the wheel is clean and dry, we spray the wheel with our wax, ensuring every angle of the spokes are covered. It is then left the cure. The time needed to cure depends on various factors, such as temperature, sunlight, and wind conditions.After the wax is cured we buff off the excess residue with a soft microfibre towel.
The wheels will be left glossy and protected for 1-2 months.
All vehicles will be affected by tar spots. These are small black dots which appear on the vehicle, usually on the lower half of the bodywork, and near wheel arches. They are caused by hot road bitumen or tarmac. When the road is hot in the summer, or newly laid during construction or pot hole repair, tiny spots of the road will fly up and dry hard onto the vehicle.
These not only look awful but if left, they can etch themselves through the paintwork. This is done when the tar expands and contracts during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.
They are also quite difficult to remove so many inferior valeters just ignore these tar spots. The reason they are difficult to remove is because standard cleaning chemicals simply do not work. A specialised tar remover must be used and care must be taken. If the tar remover is left to dry it can damage the bodywork. Also, if too much force is used, this will cause scratches to the vehicles paintwork and trim.
If the tar is not removed this will cause any ceramic or graphene coating to fail, as the surface needs to be fully decontaminated. We always take extra care and attention when removing tar spots to ensure the highest quality is safely achieved without damaging the vehicle.
Iron fallout is the name given to metal dust and particles which stick to the vehicle.
It is caused by brake dust and industrial factors which is made airborne when a vehicle passes over it. These metal particles stick firmly to the paintwork, glass and trim etc. Some of them are not visible, but some are obvious light brown or red dots.
They are not only rough to the touch and make paintwork look dirty and dull, but also damage the vehicle long term. Damage is caused mainly by the particles etching themselves into the paintwork. This is done when the particles expand and contract during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.
Iron fallout cannot be removed by standard valeting chemicals. A specific iron fallout remover must be used. A good quality fallout remover is expensive and smells disgusting, so many valeters do not use it. We use a high quality fallout remover, and take extreme care when using it, to make sure of the best results for our customers. We make sure the product is fully removed from the vehicle as if it is left in seals or crevices, residue will dry and be very hard to remove.
The vehicle will be left with brighter, smoother paintwork, whilst being free from iron contaminants. This is a crucial step to complete before polishing or ceramic coating etc.
All vehicles will pick up contaminants over time, some clearly visible, some smaller.
A clay bar is a small putty-like substance which is carefully rubbed all over the car’s paintwork and glass. As it passes over the surface, the clay sticks to and removes all sorts of contaminants which are embedded into the pores of the top coat. This can be anything from oils, tar, or fallout which regular washing does not remove.
To complete this we first must thoroughly wash the vehicle. Then we remove as much of the large contaminants such as tar and iron fallout. Once this is completed we can then use the clay. The vehicle will be wet, and a clay lubricant is used to prevent abrasiveness. The clay is rubbed lightly over a small area at a time in a crosshatch pattern.The clay is remoulded between each area, to avoid excess build up of contaminants on the surface of the clay. Then the vehicle is thoroughly rinsed and dried.
Once it is complete, the vehicle will be very smooth with the paintwork “popping” with colour because there are no contaminants left to dull the paint.
This is a crucial step to complete before polishing, waxing or ceramic coating.
There are many different types of machine polishing. They use different tools and products to tackle different issues offering various results.
The main purpose of a “single stage machine polish” is to remove light scratches and swirl marks. It is also to give the vehicles paintwork extra clarity, depth and shine. This is achieved by removing (or cutting) a microscopic layer from the top coat or clear coat of paint.
For any type of polishing, the surface must be prepared correctly. We must make sure the paintwork is clean, dry, and free from contamination. If the paintwork is not perfectly clean and dry, then the polishing process can severely damage the paintwork. This is because grit and contaminants will be caught in the polishing pad and dragged over the paintwork. This will cause deep scratches and serious problems.
When we are ready to start polishing, we must choose the correct grade of polisher, compound and pad for the situation and condition of paint. We have years of experience to ensure we get the most out of the process. We polish the vehicle a small area at a time, usually 1-2 feet square. We move the polisher carefully around any swage lines and edges. This is to avoid any damage to the paint.
Severe damage can be caused if the detailer does not take care, or have the relevant skill and experience. If the paint gets too hot, the polishing pad isn’t positioned correctly, too much pressure is used, or its not delivered in a smooth and even fashion, the paint will burn. Once the paint has been burnt, then the only way to repair it is to repaint it, which can be very expensive. We take extreme caution when polishing any vehicle, and train our team to the highest standard, to ensure there are never any issues.
With our “single stage machine polish” we cover 99% of the exterior of the vehicle including the glass. This includes the roof, bonnet, boot, doors and bumpers. Small areas such as door handles, wing mirrors and other tight to reach areas are polished with varying sized polishers and pads. The only areas not covered are door shuts, and tiny gaps in grilles etc. We will polish these if requested though.
The vehicle will be left clear of light scratches and swirl marks whilst being extremely bright, glossy and have depth to the paintwork. It will also be ready to apply any ceramic coating or wax etc. The results are simply beautiful.
Ceramic coating is a protective layer added to the surface of the vehicle which protects it against the elements, and makes it stay cleaner for longer.
A genuine ceramic coating is a liquid which is made from liquid glass. It is made from SiO2 (silicon dioxide also known as silica), mixed with solvents to make it into a liquid which can be applied to the vehicle. The ceramic coating does not just sit on top of the paintwork, it chemically bonds to the top coat. This process is what makes the coating durable.
We use the highest quality coating on the market, which has a durability of up to 5 years. It is the best possible ceramic coating which can be applied outdoors. This is very convenient considering we are mobile detailers!
The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the paintwork, but the most important factor is the protection. Your vehicle’s paintwork will be protected from dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.
To apply the ceramic coating we first ensure the vehicle is completed clean and free from contamination. Then we perfect the paint by polishing or correcting the paint.
Once the paint is fully prepared we carefully apply the ceramic coating. Extreme care must be taken to ensure the ceramic is applied correctly. Gloves must be worn, to avoid grease from our hands touching the applicator pad. The bottle of coating itself cannot be held by hand for prolonged periods, in case it cures inside the bottle. The correct amount of coating must be applied so a small pipette is used to accurately measure each dose put onto the applicator pad. The cure time is absolutely critical. If the coating is buffed too quickly, the ceramic will not chemically bond properly. If the coating is left too long, the solvents will flash too much, and the whole process of cleaning and polishing will need to be repeated. Not to worry, we are experts in this field and are fully trained with years of experience.
Once the ceramic coating is complete, your vehicle will be ultra glossy, scratch and swirl resistant, protected from the elements and it will be extremely easy to clean for up to 5 years.
Soft top and vinyl roofs are prone to going green over time, especially if the vehicle is stored outside. This will not only spoil the look of the vehicle but can also lead to premature degrading of the fabric, causing leaks.
They go green because of the growth of algae and moss which thrive on the fabric, especially in damp, shaded, or humid conditions. The soft top is made of a porous material which retains moisture, creating a great environment for spores, while dirt and organic debris act as a food source.
To clean the roof, we must use a specialised cleaner. We use a high quality cleaner, which not only removes the algae, but kills any spores to help stop regrowth. Firstly we dampen the roof. Then we soak the fabric in the algae remover. Once it has been left to soak for a short time, we agitate the whole area with a soft bristle brush. We always pay extra attention to areas such as seams, because these are often areas affected the most. We then gently rinse the roof with water, and softly dry it to avoid damaging the material.
The roof will be left free from algae, and be back to its original colour.
Engine bays are often the dirtiest area of the vehicle. They get clogged with debris, oil, grease and grime. This can make the vehicle look uncared for, especially when selling it.
To clean an engine bay you must take great care, to avoid damaging any vital components.
For our standard engine bay clean we start by dampening the whole area. We then spray the area with an all purpose engine bay cleaner. This will lift dirt, grease and oil. We agitate the dirt with soft brushes in various shapes and sizes. We start with the underside of the bonnet, then move to the top areas of the engine bay. A standard clean covers areas which are easily in sight when the bonnet is open. We then rinse off the area with a low pressure lance. Once it is rinsed, we dry the large areas with a microfibre drying towel, but we use an air blower for other areas. The reason we blow out hard to reach areas is to make sure there isn`t any moisture inside important components such as wiring and switches.
The engine bay will be left clean and tidy, which will keep your vehicle looking nice and show you have taken care of it.
Full detail machine polish with a ceramic coating for paintwork and wheels
Small/medium car
Large car
SUV
Van/Pickup or larger
Estimated Time: 15 hours
Full paint correction with a full exterior ceramic coating of all areas
Small/medium car
Large car
SUV
Van/Pickup or larger
Estimated Time: 30-40 hours
07985 240347
