Packages

Silver

Maintenance valet inside and out with wet clean of the seats

£80

Small/medium car

£85

Large car

£90

SUV

£95+

Van/Pickup or larger

Estimated Time: 3 hours

Interior
Interior vacuum – includes the boot

All vehicles will accumulate dirt and dust from daily wear and tear.

This can make the vehicle look tired and unhygienic. We complete a full vacuum of the interior. A detailing brush is used to reach small gaps such as vents and buttons. Seats are moved back and forth to access hard to reach areas. The boot is also fully vacuumed.

This cleans and freshens up the interior making driving the vehicle more pleasant.

Dash and plastics clean

Over time many of the plastics inside the vehicle get coated in dust and dirt. It can be quite unsightly and if left uncleaned, can become very stubborn to remove.

We clean all of the hard plastics inside the vehicle to remove dirt and grime. All of the tools and chemicals are safe to use on the interior, which means there will be zero scratches, residue or chemical burn.

The dash and plastics will be left clean and dust free, making the vehicle much more comfortable.

Seat shampoo and extraction or leather seat clean

Eventually all seats will show signs of wear and tear due to normal usage.

We wet clean them to keep them looking fresh and tidy. For fabric seats, we use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas. For leather seats, we use leather safe cleaners and soft brushes to agitate the area. We then use soft absorbent cloths to extract the dirt and grime, this is to prevent any scratching from the wet vacuum.

The seats are left clean and fresh for the driver and passengers.

Exterior
Pre wash

All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.

A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.

To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.

We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.

The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,

Two bucket contact wash

Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.

Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.

We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.

We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.

The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.

Towel dry

Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.

If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.

We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.

Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.

Glass clean inside and outside

Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.

Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.

The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process, for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.

The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.

Door and boot shutter clean      

The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.

We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.

Wheel face clean

Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.

There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.

For our wheel face clean, we still make sure we offer extremely high quality.

Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the wheel face and tyre, making sure the get into the small gaps between spokes etc. For this level of wheel clean, we go up to the barrel of the wheel, meaning every part which is easily visible, is cleaned.

Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.

The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.

The wheels will be left clean, shiny, and ready for polishing or coating.

Tyre shine

All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.

We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean a microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn`t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.

Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.

Hydrophobic wax – Lasts 1-2 months

Vehicle wax is available in many different forms and applications, with various purposes and attributes.

The purpose of our hydrophobic wax is to add gloss and to repel water and dirt from the paintwork of the vehicle. It will make water bead off the car which in turn, will take dirt with it. This means your vehicle will stay cleaner for longer.

To apply this wax, we first make sure the vehicle is cleaned properly. Then we liberally spray the vehicle with the hydrophobic wax whilst it is still wet. Then it is rinsed off once cured. The important part of applying wax is to make sure the product does not dry on the vehicle, and is thoroughly rinsed off. If care isn’t taken, then residue can be left, especially in panel gaps and crevices.

Your vehicle will be left looking glossy and the water will simply bead off.

Please note – Vehicles which are heavily soiled or have excessive pet hair may incur a small additional charge for the extra time and care.

Bronze Plus

More detailed maintenance valet inside and out. Perfect for prestige vehicles, suggested every 1 to 3 months.

£65

Small/medium car

£70

Large car

£75

SUV

£80+

Van/Pickup or larger

Estimated Time: 2 hours

Interior
Interior vacuum – includes the boot

All vehicles will accumulate dirt and dust from daily wear and tear.

This can make the vehicle look tired and unhygienic. We complete a full vacuum of the interior. A detailing brush is used to reach small gaps such as vents and buttons. Seats are moved back and forth to access hard to reach areas. The boot is also fully vacuumed.

This cleans and freshens up the interior making driving the vehicle more pleasant.

Dash and plastics clean

Over time many of the plastics inside the vehicle get coated in dust and dirt. It can be quite unsightly and if left uncleaned, can become very stubborn to remove.

We clean all of the hard plastics inside the vehicle to remove dirt and grime. All of the tools and chemicals are safe to use on the interior, which means there will be zero scratches, residue or chemical burn.

The dash and plastics will be left clean and dust free, making the vehicle much more comfortable.

Exterior
Pre wash

All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.

A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.

To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.

We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.

The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,

Two bucket contact wash

Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.

Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.

We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.

We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.

The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.

Towel dry

Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.

If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.

We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.

Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.

Glass clean inside and outside

Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.

Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.

The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process, for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.

The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.

Door and boot shutter clean    

The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.

We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.

Bonnet shut clean

The bonnet shuts is the area between the engine bay and the bodywork of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the bonnet is open. This means it often gets overlooked when valeting.

We make sure this area is cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud from leaking onto the body work when being driven after we leave

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.

Exhaust tip clean

Exhaust tips will always get extremely dirty due to the nature of the combustion engine.

It will get covered in dirt, smoke, and soot which can spoil the look of the whole rear end of the vehicle. It is also extremely difficult to clean.

We use specially designed products which help remove the contamination from the exhaust tip, along with specific tools which are designed for the job.

Your exhaust will be left clean and shiny adding a nice detail to your vehicle.

Thorough wheel clean

Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.

There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.

For our thorough wheel clean we ensure the whole wheel is left sparkling clean, including the inside barrel. Also we fully decontaminate the whole wheel.

Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the entire wheel and tyre, making sure to clean into the small gaps between and behind the spokes etc. We make sure every inch of the wheel is free from dirt and brake dust, including the barrel.

For a thorough wheel clean you must also decontaminate the wheel fully. Once the pre wash and standard PH neutral wheel cleaner is used, we remove any tar from the wheel. This is small dots of road bitumen or tarmac which melt onto the wheel. We use specialised tar remover and various tools to remove the tar which regular wheel cleaner cannot remove. Secondly we use a specific iron fallout remover. This chemical reacts with any iron particles which are still on the wheel. They are caused by brake dust particles which can be very stubborn to remove. The first wheel cleaner will remove most of the brake dust but a concentrated iron fallout remover gets to the very stubborn iron contaminants which can be embedded into the wheel. Once the wheel is decontaminated, we thoroughly rinse the wheel to ensure there’s no contaminants left behind. We take our time to inspect the wheel ensuring the highest quality.

Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.

The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.

The wheels will be left clean, shiny, fully decontaminated and ready for polishing or coating.

Tyre shine

All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.

We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean a microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn`t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.

Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.

Wheel wax

Wheel wax is a product specifically designed to keep your wheels cleaner for longer.

Many people may use a standard vehicle wax on the wheels, but this is ineffective, due to the high temperatures created by your brakes. The temperatures around the wheels is higher than the rest of the vehicle, meaning standard wax will have a much shorter lifespan.

We use a high quality wax which is specifically designed for wheels. It can endure much higher temperatures than normal wax, meaning it will last 1-2 months, so it`s great for maintenance valets.

Once the wheel is clean and dry, we spray the wheel with our wax, ensuring every angle of the spokes are covered. It is then left the cure. The time needed to cure depends on various factors, such as temperature, sunlight, and wind conditions.After the wax is cured we buff off the excess residue with a soft microfibre towel.

The wheels will be left glossy and protected for 1-2 months.

Hydrophobic wax – Lasts 1-2 months

Vehicle wax is available in many different forms and applications, with various purposes and attributes.

The purpose of our hydrophobic wax is to add gloss and to repel water and dirt from the paintwork of the vehicle. It will make water bead off the car which in turn, will take dirt with it. This means your vehicle will stay cleaner for longer.

To apply this wax, we first make sure the vehicle is cleaned properly. Then we liberally spray the vehicle with the hydrophobic wax whilst it is still wet. Then it is rinsed off once cured. The important part of applying wax is to make sure the product does not dry on the vehicle, and is thoroughly rinsed off. If care isn’t taken, then residue can be left, especially in panel gaps and crevices.

Your vehicle will be left looking glossy and the water will simply bead off.

Please note – Vehicles which are heavily soiled or have excessive pet hair may incur a small additional charge for the extra time and care.

Bronze

Maintenance valet inside and out. Perfect for routine upkeep, suggested every 1 to 3 months.

£50

Small/medium car

£55

Large car

£60

SUV

£65+

Van/Pickup or larger

Estimated Time: 1.5 hours

Interior
Interior vacuum – includes the boot

All vehicles will accumulate dirt and dust from daily wear and tear.

This can make the vehicle look tired and unhygienic. We complete a full vacuum of the interior. A detailing brush is used to reach small gaps such as vents and buttons. Seats are moved back and forth to access hard to reach areas. The boot is also fully vacuumed.

This cleans and freshens up the interior, making driving the vehicle more pleasant.

Dash and plastics clean

Over time many of the plastics inside the vehicle get coated in dust and dirt. It can be quite unsightly and if left uncleaned, can become very stubborn to remove.

We clean all of the hard plastics inside the vehicle to remove dirt and grime. All of the tools and chemicals are safe to use on the interior, which means there will be zero scratches, residue or chemical burn.

The dash and plastics will be left clean and dust free, making the vehicle much more comfortable.

Exterior
Pre wash

All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.

A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.

To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle’s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.

We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.

The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash.

Two bucket contact wash

Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.

Firstly we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.

We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.

We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.

We take our time and double check our work. The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.

The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.

Towel dry

Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.

If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.

We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.

Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.

Glass clean inside and outside

Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.

Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass cloths which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe for rubber trims and seals.

The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.

The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.

Door and boot shutter clean    

The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.

We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.

Wheel face clean

Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.

There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.

For our wheel face clean, we still make sure we offer extremely high quality.

Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the wheel face and tyre, making sure they get into the small gaps between spokes etc. For this level of wheel clean, we go up to the barrel of the wheel, meaning every part which is easily visible is cleaned.

Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.

The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.

The wheels will be left clean, shiny, and ready for polishing or coating.

Tyre shine

All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.

We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn’t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.

Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.

Hydrophobic wax – lasts 1–2 months

Vehicle wax is available in many different forms and applications, with various purposes and attributes.

The purpose of our hydrophobic wax is to add gloss and to repel water and dirt from the paintwork of the vehicle. It will make water bead off the car which in turn will take dirt with it. This means your vehicle will stay cleaner for longer.

To apply this wax, we first make sure the vehicle is cleaned properly. Then we liberally spray the vehicle with the hydrophobic wax whilst it is still wet. Then it is rinsed off once cured. The important part of applying wax is to make sure the product does not dry on the vehicle, and is thoroughly rinsed off. If care isn’t taken, then residue can be left, especially in panel gaps and crevices.

Your vehicle will be left looking glossy and the water will simply bead off.

Please note – Vehicles which are heavily soiled or have excessive pet hair may incur a small additional charge for the extra time and care.

Silver Plus

Maintenance valet of the exterior – wet clean of the interior seats, carpets and mats

£110

Small/medium car

£115

Large car

£120

SUV

£125+

Van/Pickup or larger

Estimated Time: 4 hours

Interior
Interior vacuum – includes the boot

All vehicles will accumulate dirt and dust from daily wear and tear.

This can make the vehicle look tired and unhygienic. We complete a full vacuum of the interior. A detailing brush is used to reach small gaps such as vents and buttons. Seats are moved back and forth to access hard to reach areas. The boot is also fully vacuumed.

This cleans and freshens up the interior making driving the vehicle more pleasant.

Dash and plastics clean

Over time many of the plastics inside the vehicle get coated in dust and dirt. It can be quite unsightly and if left uncleaned, can become very stubborn to remove.

We clean all of the hard plastics inside the vehicle to remove dirt and grime. All of the tools and chemicals are safe to use on the interior, which means there will be zero scratches, residue or chemical burn.

The dash and plastics will be left clean and dust free, making the vehicle much more comfortable.

Seat shampoo and extraction or leather seat clean

Eventually all seats will show signs of wear and tear due to normal usage.

We wet clean them to keep them looking fresh and tidy. For fabric seats, we use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas. For leather seats, we use leather safe cleaners and soft brushes to agitate the area. We then use soft absorbent cloths to extract the dirt and grime, this is to prevent any scratching from the wet vacuum.

The seats are left clean and fresh for the driver and passengers.

Floor carpet shampoo and extraction – includes the boot

The floor carpets often get very dirty over time due to muddy feet etc. Getting them clean can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The carpets will clean from dirt and grime, and smell nice too.

Floor mat shampoo and extraction

The floor mats are often the first area to build up dirt and grime due to muddy shoes etc. Getting them cleaned can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum.

The mats will be left clean and tidy with classy tramlines in the fabric where possible.

Exterior
Pre wash

All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.

A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.

To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.

We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.

The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,

Two bucket contact wash

Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.

Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.

We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.

We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.

The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.

Towel dry

Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.

If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.

We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.

Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.

Glass clean inside and outside

Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.

Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.

The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process, for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.

The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.

Door and boot shutter clean     

The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.

We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.

Wheel face clean

Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.

There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.

For our wheel face clean, we still make sure we offer extremely high quality.

Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the wheel face and tyre, making sure the get into the small gaps between spokes etc. For this level of wheel clean, we go up to the barrel of the wheel, meaning every part which is easily visible, is cleaned.

Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.

The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.

The wheels will be left clean, shiny, and ready for polishing or coating.

Tyre shine

All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.

We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean a microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn`t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.

Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.

Hydrophobic wax – Lasts 1-2 months

Vehicle wax is available in many different forms and applications, with various purposes and attributes.

The purpose of our hydrophobic wax is to add gloss and to repel water and dirt from the paintwork of the vehicle. It will make water bead off the car which in turn, will take dirt with it. This means your vehicle will stay cleaner for longer.

To apply this wax, we first make sure the vehicle is cleaned properly. Then we liberally spray the vehicle with the hydrophobic wax whilst it is still wet. Then it is rinsed off once cured. The important part of applying wax is to make sure the product does not dry on the vehicle, and is thoroughly rinsed off. If care isn’t taken, then residue can be left, especially in panel gaps and crevices.

Your vehicle will be left looking glossy and the water will simply bead off.

Please note – Vehicles which are heavily soiled or have excessive pet hair may incur a small additional charge for the extra time and care.

Gold

Deep valet of the exterior and interior – 6 month protection of paintwork

£200

Small/medium car

£210

Large car

£220

SUV

£230+

Van/Pickup or larger

Estimated Time: 6 hours

Interior
Interior vacuum – includes the boot

All vehicles will accumulate dirt and dust from daily wear and tear.

This can make the vehicle look tired and unhygienic. We complete a full vacuum of the interior. A detailing brush is used to reach small gaps such as vents and buttons. Seats are moved back and forth to access hard to reach areas. The boot is also fully vacuumed.

This cleans and freshens up the interior making driving the vehicle more pleasant.

Dash and plastics clean

Over time many of the plastics inside the vehicle get coated in dust and dirt. It can be quite unsightly and if left uncleaned, can become very stubborn to remove.

We clean all of the hard plastics inside the vehicle to remove dirt and grime. All of the tools and chemicals are safe to use on the interior, which means there will be zero scratches, residue or chemical burn.

The dash and plastics will be left clean and dust free, making the vehicle much more comfortable.

Seat shampoo and extraction or leather seat clean

Eventually all seats will show signs of wear and tear due to normal usage.

We wet clean them to keep them looking fresh and tidy. For fabric seats, we use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas. For leather seats, we use leather safe cleaners and soft brushes to agitate the area. We then use soft absorbent cloths to extract the dirt and grime, this is to prevent any scratching from the wet vacuum.

The seats are left clean and fresh for the driver and passengers.

Floor carpet shampoo and extraction – includes the boot

The floor carpets often get very dirty over time due to muddy feet etc. Getting them clean can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The carpets will clean from dirt and grime, and smell nice too.

Floor mat shampoo and extraction

The floor mats are often the first area to build up dirt and grime due to muddy shoes etc. Getting them cleaned can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum.

The mats will be left clean and tidy with classy tramlines in the fabric where possible.

Exterior
Pre wash

All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.

A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.

To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.

We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.

The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,

Two bucket contact wash

Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.

Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.

We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.

We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.

The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.

Towel dry

Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.

If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.

We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.

Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.

Glass clean inside and outside

Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.

Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.

The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process, for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.

The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.

Door and boot shutter clean      

The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.

We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.

Bonnet shut clean

The bonnet shuts is the area between the engine bay and the bodywork of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the bonnet is open. This means it often gets overlooked when valeting.

We make sure this area is cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud from leaking onto the body work when being driven after we leave

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.

Exhaust tip clean

Exhaust tips will always get extremely dirty due to the nature of the combustion engine.

It will get covered in dirt, smoke, and soot which can spoil the look of the whole rear end of the vehicle. It is also extremely difficult to clean.

We use specially designed products which help remove the contamination from the exhaust tip, along with specific tools which are designed for the job.

Your exhaust will be left clean and shiny adding a nice detail to your vehicle.

Thorough wheel clean

Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.

There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.

For our thorough wheel clean we ensure the whole wheel is left sparkling clean, including the inside barrel. Also we fully decontaminate the whole wheel.

Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the entire wheel and tyre, making sure to clean into the small gaps between and behind the spokes etc. We make sure every inch of the wheel is free from dirt and brake dust, including the barrel.

For a thorough wheel clean you must also decontaminate the wheel fully. Once the pre wash and standard PH neutral wheel cleaner is used, we remove any tar from the wheel. This is small dots of road bitumen or tarmac which melt onto the wheel. We use specialised tar remover and various tools to remove the tar which regular wheel cleaner cannot remove. Secondly we use a specific iron fallout remover. This chemical reacts with any iron particles which are still on the wheel. They are caused by brake dust particles which can be very stubborn to remove. The first wheel cleaner will remove most of the brake dust but a concentrated iron fallout remover gets to the very stubborn iron contaminants which can be embedded into the wheel. Once the wheel is decontaminated, we thoroughly rinse the wheel to ensure there’s no contaminants left behind. We take our time to inspect the wheel ensuring the highest quality.

Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.

The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.

The wheels will be left clean, shiny, fully decontaminated and ready for polishing or coating.

Tyre shine

All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.

We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean a microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn`t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.

Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.

Wheel wax

Wheel wax is a product specifically designed to keep your wheels cleaner for longer.

Many people may use a standard vehicle wax on the wheels, but this is ineffective, due to the high temperatures created by your brakes. The temperatures around the wheels is higher than the rest of the vehicle, meaning standard wax will have a much shorter lifespan.

We use a high quality wax which is specifically designed for wheels. It can endure much higher temperatures than normal wax, meaning it will last 1-2 months, so it`s great for maintenance valets.

Once the wheel is clean and dry, we spray the wheel with our wax, ensuring every angle of the spokes are covered. It is then left the cure. The time needed to cure depends on various factors, such as temperature, sunlight, and wind conditions.After the wax is cured we buff off the excess residue with a soft microfibre towel.

The wheels will be left glossy and protected for 1-2 months.

Tar spot removal

All vehicles will be affected by tar spots. These are small black dots which appear on the vehicle, usually on the lower half of the bodywork, and near wheel arches. They are caused by hot road bitumen or tarmac. When the road is hot in the summer, or newly laid during construction or pot hole repair, tiny spots of the road will fly up and dry hard onto the vehicle.

These not only look awful but if left, they can etch themselves through the paintwork. This is done when the tar expands and contracts during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

They are also quite difficult to remove so many inferior valeters just ignore these tar spots. The reason they are difficult to remove is because standard cleaning chemicals simply do not work. A specialised tar remover must be used and care must be taken. If the tar remover is left to dry it can damage the bodywork. Also, if too much force is used, this will cause scratches to the vehicles paintwork and trim.

If the tar is not removed this will cause any ceramic or graphene coating to fail, as the surface needs to be fully decontaminated. We always take extra care and attention when removing tar spots to ensure the highest quality is safely achieved without damaging the vehicle.

Iron fallout removal

Iron fallout is the name given to metal dust and particles which stick to the vehicle.

It is caused by brake dust and industrial factors which is made airborne when a vehicle passes over it. These metal particles stick firmly to the paintwork, glass and trim etc. Some of them are not visible, but some are obvious light brown or red dots.

They are not only rough to the touch and make paintwork look dirty and dull, but also damage the vehicle long term. Damage is caused mainly by the particles etching themselves into the paintwork. This is done when the particles expand and contract during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

Iron fallout cannot be removed by standard valeting chemicals. A specific iron fallout remover must be used. A good quality fallout remover is expensive and smells disgusting, so many valeters do not use it. We use a high quality fallout remover, and take extreme care when using it, to make sure of the best results for our customers. We make sure the product is fully removed from the vehicle as if it is left in seals or crevices, residue will dry and be very hard to remove.

The vehicle will be left with brighter, smoother paintwork, whilst being free from iron contaminants. This is a crucial step to complete before polishing or ceramic coating etc.

Clay bar decontamination

All vehicles will pick up contaminants over time, some clearly visible, some smaller.

A clay bar is a small putty-like substance which is carefully rubbed all over the car’s paintwork and glass. As it passes over the surface, the clay sticks to and removes all sorts of contaminants which are embedded into the pores of the top coat. This can be anything from oils, tar, or fallout which regular washing does not remove.

To complete this we first must thoroughly wash the vehicle. Then we remove as much of the large contaminants such as tar and iron fallout. Once this is completed we can then use the clay. The vehicle will be wet, and a clay lubricant is used to prevent abrasiveness. The clay is rubbed lightly over a small area at a time in a crosshatch pattern.The clay is remoulded between each area, to avoid excess build up of contaminants on the surface of the clay. Then the vehicle is thoroughly rinsed and dried.

Once it is complete, the vehicle will be very smooth with the paintwork “”popping”” with colour because there are no contaminants left to dull the paint.

This is a crucial step to complete before polishing, waxing or ceramic coating.

Polymer wax – Lasts 6-9 months     

Lots of people have heard of car wax, or know people who use it.

There are two main types of waxes commonly used, “natural” and “polymer”. Natural wax includes products like carnauba and bees wax. These are easy to apply and give a nice gloss, but they only last 1-2 months.
Polymer waxes are man made waxes which include ingredients like Si02 and graphene. These waxes offer a much longer lifespan of 6-9 months. They offer protection from UV rays, acid rain, water spots, and traffic film. Hard waxes also give great shine and depth to the paintwork, whilst making water aggressively bead from the vehicle.

The hard wax works by sitting on top of the vehicle’s top coat of paint. It fills in the microscopic pores of the top coat meaning the surface will be left smooth and shiny.

The vehicle must first be completely decontaminated. This is to ensure the wax adheres to the surface evenly and on all areas. Once the vehicle is decontaminated and dry, a small amount of wax is added to a soft applicator. It is massaged carefully into the paintwork, a small area at a time. Then the wax is left to cure. The time it takes can depend on lots of factors, from panel temperature, wind speed and the type of wax. Once it is cured, we gently buff off the wax with a plush microfibre.

The whole process cannot be rushed, and care must be taken. If not, the wax will either not cure properly, meaning it won`t last very long, or it will cure too much and leave a concrete like haze over the paintwork. This can be very hard to remove and will mean starting the whole process again.

When done properly, a good quality hard wax will leave your vehicle extremely shiny glossy with a real depth and pop to the paintwork.

Please note – Vehicles which are heavily soiled or have excessive pet hair may incur a small additional charge for the extra time and care.

Gold Plus

Thorough valet of the exterior and interior – 6 month protection of paintwork – antibacterial clean of interior

£280

Small/medium car

£290

Large car

£300

SUV

£310+

Van/Pickup or larger

Estimated Time: 7 hours

Interior
Interior vacuum – includes the boot

All vehicles will accumulate dirt and dust from daily wear and tear.

This can make the vehicle look tired and unhygienic. We complete a full vacuum of the interior. A detailing brush is used to reach small gaps such as vents and buttons. Seats are moved back and forth to access hard to reach areas. The boot is also fully vacuumed.

This cleans and freshens up the interior making driving the vehicle more pleasant.

Dash and plastics clean

Over time many of the plastics inside the vehicle get coated in dust and dirt. It can be quite unsightly and if left uncleaned, can become very stubborn to remove.

We clean all of the hard plastics inside the vehicle to remove dirt and grime. All of the tools and chemicals are safe to use on the interior, which means there will be zero scratches, residue or chemical burn.

The dash and plastics will be left clean and dust free, making the vehicle much more comfortable.

Seat shampoo and extraction or leather seat clean

Eventually all seats will show signs of wear and tear due to normal usage.

We wet clean them to keep them looking fresh and tidy. For fabric seats, we use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas. For leather seats, we use leather safe cleaners and soft brushes to agitate the area. We then use soft absorbent cloths to extract the dirt and grime, this is to prevent any scratching from the wet vacuum.

The seats are left clean and fresh for the driver and passengers.

Floor carpet shampoo and extraction – includes the boot

The floor carpets often get very dirty over time due to muddy feet etc. Getting them clean can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The carpets will clean from dirt and grime, and smell nice too.

Floor mat shampoo and extraction

The floor mats are often the first area to build up dirt and grime due to muddy shoes etc. Getting them cleaned can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum.

The mats will be left clean and tidy with classy tramlines in the fabric where possible.

Roof lining shampoo and extraction

Roof linings are often overlooked but they can get very dirty and dull. This is caused by hand prints getting in and out along with marks and stains when loading in and out.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The roof will be left clean, fresh and bright.

Stain removal if required

Stains can happen for any reason, such as food, drink and pets.

Stains can only be removed if the correct chemical and process is used. We use a variety of chemicals, tools and techniques to remove all types of stains. Steam is also used to help loosen stubborn stains. This also hygienically cleans the area and removes odours.

This can really make a huge difference to the appearance of the vehicle and increase its value when reselling or part exchanging.

Steam clean of seats

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The seats will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Steam clean of carpets – including the boot

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The carpets will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Steam clean of floor mats

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The floor mats will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Exterior
Pre wash

All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.

A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.

To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.

We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.

The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,

Two bucket contact wash

Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.

Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.

We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.

We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.

The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.

Towel dry

Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.

If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.

We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.

Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.

Glass clean inside and outside

Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.

Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.

The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process, for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.

The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.

Door and boot shutter clean     

The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.

We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.

Bonnet shut clean

The bonnet shuts is the area between the engine bay and the bodywork of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the bonnet is open. This means it often gets overlooked when valeting.

We make sure this area is cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud from leaking onto the body work when being driven after we leave

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.

Exhaust tip clean

Exhaust tips will always get extremely dirty due to the nature of the combustion engine.

It will get covered in dirt, smoke, and soot which can spoil the look of the whole rear end of the vehicle. It is also extremely difficult to clean.

We use specially designed products which help remove the contamination from the exhaust tip, along with specific tools which are designed for the job.

Your exhaust will be left clean and shiny adding a nice detail to your vehicle.

Thorough wheel clean

Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.

There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.

For our thorough wheel clean we ensure the whole wheel is left sparkling clean, including the inside barrel. Also we fully decontaminate the whole wheel.

Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the entire wheel and tyre, making sure to clean into the small gaps between and behind the spokes etc. We make sure every inch of the wheel is free from dirt and brake dust, including the barrel.

For a thorough wheel clean you must also decontaminate the wheel fully. Once the pre wash and standard PH neutral wheel cleaner is used, we remove any tar from the wheel. This is small dots of road bitumen or tarmac which melt onto the wheel. We use specialised tar remover and various tools to remove the tar which regular wheel cleaner cannot remove. Secondly we use a specific iron fallout remover. This chemical reacts with any iron particles which are still on the wheel. They are caused by brake dust particles which can be very stubborn to remove. The first wheel cleaner will remove most of the brake dust but a concentrated iron fallout remover gets to the very stubborn iron contaminants which can be embedded into the wheel. Once the wheel is decontaminated, we thoroughly rinse the wheel to ensure there’s no contaminants left behind. We take our time to inspect the wheel ensuring the highest quality.

Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.

The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.

The wheels will be left clean, shiny, fully decontaminated and ready for polishing or coating.

Tyre shine

All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.

We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean a microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn`t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.

Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.

Wheel wax

Wheel wax is a product specifically designed to keep your wheels cleaner for longer.

Many people may use a standard vehicle wax on the wheels, but this is ineffective, due to the high temperatures created by your brakes. The temperatures around the wheels is higher than the rest of the vehicle, meaning standard wax will have a much shorter lifespan.

We use a high quality wax which is specifically designed for wheels. It can endure much higher temperatures than normal wax, meaning it will last 1-2 months, so it`s great for maintenance valets.

Once the wheel is clean and dry, we spray the wheel with our wax, ensuring every angle of the spokes are covered. It is then left the cure. The time needed to cure depends on various factors, such as temperature, sunlight, and wind conditions.After the wax is cured we buff off the excess residue with a soft microfibre towel.

The wheels will be left glossy and protected for 1-2 months.

Tar spot removal

All vehicles will be affected by tar spots. These are small black dots which appear on the vehicle, usually on the lower half of the bodywork, and near wheel arches. They are caused by hot road bitumen or tarmac. When the road is hot in the summer, or newly laid during construction or pot hole repair, tiny spots of the road will fly up and dry hard onto the vehicle.

These not only look awful but if left, they can etch themselves through the paintwork. This is done when the tar expands and contracts during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

They are also quite difficult to remove so many inferior valeters just ignore these tar spots. The reason they are difficult to remove is because standard cleaning chemicals simply do not work. A specialised tar remover must be used and care must be taken. If the tar remover is left to dry it can damage the bodywork. Also, if too much force is used, this will cause scratches to the vehicles paintwork and trim.

If the tar is not removed this will cause any ceramic or graphene coating to fail, as the surface needs to be fully decontaminated. We always take extra care and attention when removing tar spots to ensure the highest quality is safely achieved without damaging the vehicle.

Iron fallout removal

Iron fallout is the name given to metal dust and particles which stick to the vehicle.

It is caused by brake dust and industrial factors which is made airborne when a vehicle passes over it. These metal particles stick firmly to the paintwork, glass and trim etc. Some of them are not visible, but some are obvious light brown or red dots.

They are not only rough to the touch and make paintwork look dirty and dull, but also damage the vehicle long term. Damage is caused mainly by the particles etching themselves into the paintwork. This is done when the particles expand and contract during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

Iron fallout cannot be removed by standard valeting chemicals. A specific iron fallout remover must be used. A good quality fallout remover is expensive and smells disgusting, so many valeters do not use it. We use a high quality fallout remover, and take extreme care when using it, to make sure of the best results for our customers. We make sure the product is fully removed from the vehicle as if it is left in seals or crevices, residue will dry and be very hard to remove.

The vehicle will be left with brighter, smoother paintwork, whilst being free from iron contaminants. This is a crucial step to complete before polishing or ceramic coating etc.

Clay bar decontamination

All vehicles will pick up contaminants over time, some clearly visible, some smaller.

A clay bar is a small putty-like substance which is carefully rubbed all over the car’s paintwork and glass. As it passes over the surface, the clay sticks to and removes all sorts of contaminants which are embedded into the pores of the top coat. This can be anything from oils, tar, or fallout which regular washing does not remove.

To complete this we first must thoroughly wash the vehicle. Then we remove as much of the large contaminants such as tar and iron fallout. Once this is completed we can then use the clay. The vehicle will be wet, and a clay lubricant is used to prevent abrasiveness. The clay is rubbed lightly over a small area at a time in a crosshatch pattern.The clay is remoulded between each area, to avoid excess build up of contaminants on the surface of the clay. Then the vehicle is thoroughly rinsed and dried.

Once it is complete, the vehicle will be very smooth with the paintwork “”popping”” with colour because there are no contaminants left to dull the paint.

This is a crucial step to complete before polishing, waxing or ceramic coating.

Polymer wax – Lasts 6-9 months     

Lots of people have heard of car wax, or know people who use it.

There are two main types of waxes commonly used, “natural” and “polymer”. Natural wax includes products like carnauba and bees wax. These are easy to apply and give a nice gloss, but they only last 1-2 months.
Polymer waxes are man made waxes which include ingredients like Si02 and graphene. These waxes offer a much longer lifespan of 6-9 months. They offer protection from UV rays, acid rain, water spots, and traffic film. Hard waxes also give great shine and depth to the paintwork, whilst making water aggressively bead from the vehicle.

The hard wax works by sitting on top of the vehicle’s top coat of paint. It fills in the microscopic pores of the top coat meaning the surface will be left smooth and shiny.

The vehicle must first be completely decontaminated. This is to ensure the wax adheres to the surface evenly and on all areas. Once the vehicle is decontaminated and dry, a small amount of wax is added to a soft applicator. It is massaged carefully into the paintwork, a small area at a time. Then the wax is left to cure. The time it takes can depend on lots of factors, from panel temperature, wind speed and the type of wax. Once it is cured, we gently buff off the wax with a plush microfibre.

The whole process cannot be rushed, and care must be taken. If not, the wax will either not cure properly, meaning it won`t last very long, or it will cure too much and leave a concrete like haze over the paintwork. This can be very hard to remove and will mean starting the whole process again.

When done properly, a good quality hard wax will leave your vehicle extremely shiny glossy with a real depth and pop to the paintwork.

Please note – Vehicles which are heavily soiled or have excessive pet hair may incur a small additional charge for the extra time and care.

Platinum

Thorough valet of the exterior and interior – quick machine polish – 6 month protection of paintwork – antibacterial clean of interior

£380

Small/medium car

£390

Large car

£400

SUV

£410+

Van/Pickup or larger

Estimated Time: 8 hours

interior
Interior vacuum – includes the boot

All vehicles will accumulate dirt and dust from daily wear and tear.

This can make the vehicle look tired and unhygienic. We complete a full vacuum of the interior. A detailing brush is used to reach small gaps such as vents and buttons. Seats are moved back and forth to access hard to reach areas. The boot is also fully vacuumed.

This cleans and freshens up the interior making driving the vehicle more pleasant.

Dash and plastics clean

Over time many of the plastics inside the vehicle get coated in dust and dirt. It can be quite unsightly and if left uncleaned, can become very stubborn to remove.

We clean all of the hard plastics inside the vehicle to remove dirt and grime. All of the tools and chemicals are safe to use on the interior, which means there will be zero scratches, residue or chemical burn.

The dash and plastics will be left clean and dust free, making the vehicle much more comfortable.

Seat shampoo and extraction or leather seat clean

Eventually all seats will show signs of wear and tear due to normal usage.

We wet clean them to keep them looking fresh and tidy. For fabric seats, we use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas. For leather seats, we use leather safe cleaners and soft brushes to agitate the area. We then use soft absorbent cloths to extract the dirt and grime, this is to prevent any scratching from the wet vacuum.

The seats are left clean and fresh for the driver and passengers.

Floor carpet shampoo and extraction – includes the boot

The floor carpets often get very dirty over time due to muddy feet etc. Getting them clean can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The carpets will clean from dirt and grime, and smell nice too.

Floor mat shampoo and extraction

The floor mats are often the first area to build up dirt and grime due to muddy shoes etc. Getting them cleaned can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum.

The mats will be left clean and tidy with classy tramlines in the fabric where possible.

Roof lining shampoo and extraction

Roof linings are often overlooked but they can get very dirty and dull. This is caused by hand prints getting in and out along with marks and stains when loading in and out.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The roof will be left clean, fresh and bright.

Stain removal if required

Stains can happen for any reason, such as food, drink and pets.

Stains can only be removed if the correct chemical and process is used. We use a variety of chemicals, tools and techniques to remove all types of stains. Steam is also used to help loosen stubborn stains. This also hygienically cleans the area and removes odours.

This can really make a huge difference to the appearance of the vehicle and increase its value when reselling or part exchanging.

Steam clean of seats

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The seats will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Steam clean of carpets – including the boot

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The carpets will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Steam clean of floor mats

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The floor mats will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Exterior
Pre wash

All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.

A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.

To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.

We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.

The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,

Two bucket contact wash

Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.

Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.

We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.

We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.

The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.

Towel dry

Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.

If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.

We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.

Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.

Glass clean inside and outside

Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.

Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.

The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process, for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.

The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.

Door and boot shutter clean

The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.

We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.

Bonnet shut clean

The bonnet shuts is the area between the engine bay and the bodywork of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the bonnet is open. This means it often gets overlooked when valeting.

We make sure this area is cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud from leaking onto the body work when being driven after we leave

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.

Exhaust tip clean

Exhaust tips will always get extremely dirty due to the nature of the combustion engine.

It will get covered in dirt, smoke, and soot which can spoil the look of the whole rear end of the vehicle. It is also extremely difficult to clean.

We use specially designed products which help remove the contamination from the exhaust tip, along with specific tools which are designed for the job.

Your exhaust will be left clean and shiny adding a nice detail to your vehicle.

Thorough wheel clean

Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.

There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.

For our thorough wheel clean we ensure the whole wheel is left sparkling clean, including the inside barrel. Also we fully decontaminate the whole wheel.

Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the entire wheel and tyre, making sure to clean into the small gaps between and behind the spokes etc. We make sure every inch of the wheel is free from dirt and brake dust, including the barrel.

For a thorough wheel clean you must also decontaminate the wheel fully. Once the pre wash and standard PH neutral wheel cleaner is used, we remove any tar from the wheel. This is small dots of road bitumen or tarmac which melt onto the wheel. We use specialised tar remover and various tools to remove the tar which regular wheel cleaner cannot remove. Secondly we use a specific iron fallout remover. This chemical reacts with any iron particles which are still on the wheel. They are caused by brake dust particles which can be very stubborn to remove. The first wheel cleaner will remove most of the brake dust but a concentrated iron fallout remover gets to the very stubborn iron contaminants which can be embedded into the wheel. Once the wheel is decontaminated, we thoroughly rinse the wheel to ensure there’s no contaminants left behind. We take our time to inspect the wheel ensuring the highest quality.

Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.

The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.

The wheels will be left clean, shiny, fully decontaminated and ready for polishing or coating.

Tyre shine

All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.

We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean a microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn`t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.

Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.

Wheel wax

Wheel wax is a product specifically designed to keep your wheels cleaner for longer.

Many people may use a standard vehicle wax on the wheels, but this is ineffective, due to the high temperatures created by your brakes. The temperatures around the wheels is higher than the rest of the vehicle, meaning standard wax will have a much shorter lifespan.

We use a high quality wax which is specifically designed for wheels. It can endure much higher temperatures than normal wax, meaning it will last 1-2 months, so it`s great for maintenance valets.

Once the wheel is clean and dry, we spray the wheel with our wax, ensuring every angle of the spokes are covered. It is then left the cure. The time needed to cure depends on various factors, such as temperature, sunlight, and wind conditions.After the wax is cured we buff off the excess residue with a soft microfibre towel.

The wheels will be left glossy and protected for 1-2 months.

Tar spot removal

All vehicles will be affected by tar spots. These are small black dots which appear on the vehicle, usually on the lower half of the bodywork, and near wheel arches. They are caused by hot road bitumen or tarmac. When the road is hot in the summer, or newly laid during construction or pot hole repair, tiny spots of the road will fly up and dry hard onto the vehicle.

These not only look awful but if left, they can etch themselves through the paintwork. This is done when the tar expands and contracts during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

They are also quite difficult to remove so many inferior valeters just ignore these tar spots. The reason they are difficult to remove is because standard cleaning chemicals simply do not work. A specialised tar remover must be used and care must be taken. If the tar remover is left to dry it can damage the bodywork. Also, if too much force is used, this will cause scratches to the vehicles paintwork and trim.

If the tar is not removed this will cause any ceramic or graphene coating to fail, as the surface needs to be fully decontaminated. We always take extra care and attention when removing tar spots to ensure the highest quality is safely achieved without damaging the vehicle.

Iron fallout removal

Iron fallout is the name given to metal dust and particles which stick to the vehicle.

It is caused by brake dust and industrial factors which is made airborne when a vehicle passes over it. These metal particles stick firmly to the paintwork, glass and trim etc. Some of them are not visible, but some are obvious light brown or red dots.

They are not only rough to the touch and make paintwork look dirty and dull, but also damage the vehicle long term. Damage is caused mainly by the particles etching themselves into the paintwork. This is done when the particles expand and contract during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

Iron fallout cannot be removed by standard valeting chemicals. A specific iron fallout remover must be used. A good quality fallout remover is expensive and smells disgusting, so many valeters do not use it. We use a high quality fallout remover, and take extreme care when using it, to make sure of the best results for our customers. We make sure the product is fully removed from the vehicle as if it is left in seals or crevices, residue will dry and be very hard to remove.

The vehicle will be left with brighter, smoother paintwork, whilst being free from iron contaminants. This is a crucial step to complete before polishing or ceramic coating etc.

Clay bar decontamination

All vehicles will pick up contaminants over time, some clearly visible, some smaller.

A clay bar is a small putty-like substance which is carefully rubbed all over the car’s paintwork and glass. As it passes over the surface, the clay sticks to and removes all sorts of contaminants which are embedded into the pores of the top coat. This can be anything from oils, tar, or fallout which regular washing does not remove.

To complete this we first must thoroughly wash the vehicle. Then we remove as much of the large contaminants such as tar and iron fallout. Once this is completed we can then use the clay. The vehicle will be wet, and a clay lubricant is used to prevent abrasiveness. The clay is rubbed lightly over a small area at a time in a crosshatch pattern.The clay is remoulded between each area, to avoid excess build up of contaminants on the surface of the clay. Then the vehicle is thoroughly rinsed and dried.

Once it is complete, the vehicle will be very smooth with the paintwork “”popping”” with colour because there are no contaminants left to dull the paint.

This is a crucial step to complete before polishing, waxing or ceramic coating.

Quick machine polish

There are many different types of machine polishing. They use different tools and products to tackle different issues offering various results.

The main purpose of a “”quick machine polish”” is to give the vehicle’s paintwork extra clarity, depth and shine. This is achieved by removing (or cutting) a microscopic layer from the top coat or clear coat of paint.

For any type of polishing, the surface must be prepared correctly. We must make sure the paintwork is clean, dry, and free from contamination. If the paintwork is not perfectly clean and dry, then the polishing process can severely damage the paintwork. This is because grit and contaminants will be caught in the polishing pad and dragged over the paintwork. This will cause deep scratches and serious problems.

When we are ready to start polishing, we must choose the correct grade of polisher, compound and pad for the situation and condition of paint. We have years of experience to ensure we get the most out of the process. We polish the vehicle a small area at a time, usually 1-2 feet square. We move the polisher carefully around any swage lines and edges. This is to avoid any damage to the paint.

Severe damage can be caused if the detailer does not take care, or have the relevant skill and experience. If the paint gets too hot, the polishing pad isn’t positioned correctly, too much pressure is used, or its not delivered in a smooth and even fashion, the paint will burn. Once the paint has been burnt, then the only way to repair it is to repaint it, which can be very expensive. We take extreme caution when polishing any vehicle, and train our team to the highest standard, to ensure there are never any issues.

With our “”quick polish”” we cover 95% of the vehicle. This includes the roof, bonnet, boot, doors and bumpers. Small areas such as door handles, door shuts and other tight to reach areas are not covered in the particular level of polish. However, we do offer this in our other levels.

The vehicle will be left extremely bright, glossy and have depth to the paintwork. It will also be ready to apply any ceramic coating or wax etc.

Polymer wax – Lasts 6-9 months      

Lots of people have heard of car wax, or know people who use it.

There are two main types of waxes commonly used, “natural” and “polymer”. Natural wax includes products like carnauba and bees wax. These are easy to apply and give a nice gloss, but they only last 1-2 months.
Polymer waxes are man made waxes which include ingredients like Si02 and graphene. These waxes offer a much longer lifespan of 6-9 months. They offer protection from UV rays, acid rain, water spots, and traffic film. Hard waxes also give great shine and depth to the paintwork, whilst making water aggressively bead from the vehicle.

The hard wax works by sitting on top of the vehicle’s top coat of paint. It fills in the microscopic pores of the top coat meaning the surface will be left smooth and shiny.

The vehicle must first be completely decontaminated. This is to ensure the wax adheres to the surface evenly and on all areas. Once the vehicle is decontaminated and dry, a small amount of wax is added to a soft applicator. It is massaged carefully into the paintwork, a small area at a time. Then the wax is left to cure. The time it takes can depend on lots of factors, from panel temperature, wind speed and the type of wax. Once it is cured, we gently buff off the wax with a plush microfibre.

The whole process cannot be rushed, and care must be taken. If not, the wax will either not cure properly, meaning it won`t last very long, or it will cure too much and leave a concrete like haze over the paintwork. This can be very hard to remove and will mean starting the whole process again.

When done properly, a good quality hard wax will leave your vehicle extremely shiny glossy with a real depth and pop to the paintwork.

Please note – Vehicles which are heavily soiled or have excessive pet hair may incur a small additional charge for the extra time and care.

Platinum Plus

Thorough valet of interior – machine polish – ceramic coating of paintwork

£550

Small/medium car

£570

Large car

£590

SUV

£610+

Van/Pickup or larger

Estimated Time: 10 hours

Interior
Interior vacuum – includes the boot

All vehicles will accumulate dirt and dust from daily wear and tear.

This can make the vehicle look tired and unhygienic. We complete a full vacuum of the interior. A detailing brush is used to reach small gaps such as vents and buttons. Seats are moved back and forth to access hard to reach areas. The boot is also fully vacuumed.

This cleans and freshens up the interior making driving the vehicle more pleasant.

Dash and plastics clean

Over time many of the plastics inside the vehicle get coated in dust and dirt. It can be quite unsightly and if left uncleaned, can become very stubborn to remove.

We clean all of the hard plastics inside the vehicle to remove dirt and grime. All of the tools and chemicals are safe to use on the interior, which means there will be zero scratches, residue or chemical burn.

The dash and plastics will be left clean and dust free, making the vehicle much more comfortable.

Seat shampoo and extraction or leather seat clean

Eventually all seats will show signs of wear and tear due to normal usage.

We wet clean them to keep them looking fresh and tidy. For fabric seats, we use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas. For leather seats, we use leather safe cleaners and soft brushes to agitate the area. We then use soft absorbent cloths to extract the dirt and grime, this is to prevent any scratching from the wet vacuum.

The seats are left clean and fresh for the driver and passengers.

Floor carpet shampoo and extraction – includes the boot

The floor carpets often get very dirty over time due to muddy feet etc. Getting them clean can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The carpets will clean from dirt and grime, and smell nice too.

Floor mat shampoo and extraction

The floor mats are often the first area to build up dirt and grime due to muddy shoes etc. Getting them cleaned can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum.

The mats will be left clean and tidy with classy tramlines in the fabric where possible.

Roof lining shampoo and extraction

Roof linings are often overlooked but they can get very dirty and dull. This is caused by hand prints getting in and out along with marks and stains when loading in and out.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The roof will be left clean, fresh and bright.

Stain removal if required

Stains can happen for any reason, such as food, drink and pets.

Stains can only be removed if the correct chemical and process is used. We use a variety of chemicals, tools and techniques to remove all types of stains. Steam is also used to help loosen stubborn stains. This also hygienically cleans the area and removes odours.

This can really make a huge difference to the appearance of the vehicle and increase its value when reselling or part exchanging.

Steam clean of seats

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The seats will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Steam clean of carpets – including the boot

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The carpets will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Steam clean of floor mats

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The floor mats will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Exterior
Pre wash

All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.

A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.

To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.

We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.

The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,

Two bucket contact wash

Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.

Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.

We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.

We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.

The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.

Towel dry

Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.

If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.

We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.

Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.

Blow dry of crevices

The reason we blow dry crevices on the vehicle is because some areas are too small to reach with a drying towel.

If the water is left in the crevices, then it will eventually leak onto the bodywork and could leave dirt, grime and water marks. This is especially common from wing mirrors and the front grill.

We use a blow drying which filters the air, to avoid grit being thrown onto the vehicle causing scratches. Then we simply use a soft drying towel where the water is exposed.

This seems like a simple step but it is crucial when the highest quality is needed.

Glass clean inside and outside

Keeping the glass on the vehicle is very important. Not only because it drastically improves the look of the vehicle, but also to increase visibility. If you do not have a clean windscreen, it can be very dangerous. Imagine driving in the rain at night, with a greasy or dirty windscreen. The oncoming headlights will glare on the glass to the point you cannot see the road. This is why it is very important to clean the glass properly.

Firstly we make sure the outside of the glass has been pre washed, shampooed, and dried by the initial valeting process. Then we use a high quality glass cleaner, with special glass clothes which ensure there are no streaks or spots. We also make sure we clean up to the very edge of the glass, and use glass cleaners which are safe of rubber trims and seals.

The inside of the glass can get contaminated by general use, but also by other factors, such as pets, children, vaping, or smoking. We use the same process, for the interior of the glass as we do on the exterior.

The glass is left clean from dirt, grime and grease.

Door and boot shutter clean      

The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.

We make sure these areas are cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overal quality of the valet.

Bonnet shut clean

The bonnet shuts is the area between the engine bay and the bodywork of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the bonnet is open. This means it often gets overlooked when valeting.

We make sure this area is cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud from leaking onto the body work when being driven after we leave

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.

Exhaust tip clean

Exhaust tips will always get extremely dirty due to the nature of the combustion engine.

It will get covered in dirt, smoke, and soot which can spoil the look of the whole rear end of the vehicle. It is also extremely difficult to clean.

We use specially designed products which help remove the contamination from the exhaust tip, along with specific tools which are designed for the job.

Your exhaust will be left clean and shiny adding a nice detail to your vehicle.

Thorough wheel clean

Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.

There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.

For our thorough wheel clean we ensure the whole wheel is left sparkling clean, including the inside barrel. Also we fully decontaminate the whole wheel.

Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the entire wheel and tyre, making sure to clean into the small gaps between and behind the spokes etc. We make sure every inch of the wheel is free from dirt and brake dust, including the barrel.

For a thorough wheel clean you must also decontaminate the wheel fully. Once the pre wash and standard PH neutral wheel cleaner is used, we remove any tar from the wheel. This is small dots of road bitumen or tarmac which melt onto the wheel. We use specialised tar remover and various tools to remove the tar which regular wheel cleaner cannot remove. Secondly we use a specific iron fallout remover. This chemical reacts with any iron particles which are still on the wheel. They are caused by brake dust particles which can be very stubborn to remove. The first wheel cleaner will remove most of the brake dust but a concentrated iron fallout remover gets to the very stubborn iron contaminants which can be embedded into the wheel. Once the wheel is decontaminated, we thoroughly rinse the wheel to ensure there’s no contaminants left behind. We take our time to inspect the wheel ensuring the highest quality.

Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.

The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.

The wheels will be left clean, shiny, fully decontaminated and ready for polishing or coating.

Tyre shine

All tyres will go grey in colour over time, even if they are cleaned regularly. This can make the whole wheel look tired.

We use a quality durable tyre gel which makes the tyre look gloss black again. We simply apply it with a clean a microfibre and buff off the excess. If the gel is applied too thick, or the excess isn`t removed, it will spray onto the bodywork when the wheel is in motion.

Once the tyre is coated, it will stay cleaner for longer and look nice until the next valet.

Wheel wax

Wheel wax is a product specifically designed to keep your wheels cleaner for longer.

Many people may use a standard vehicle wax on the wheels, but this is ineffective, due to the high temperatures created by your brakes. The temperatures around the wheels is higher than the rest of the vehicle, meaning standard wax will have a much shorter lifespan.

We use a high quality wax which is specifically designed for wheels. It can endure much higher temperatures than normal wax, meaning it will last 1-2 months, so it`s great for maintenance valets.

Once the wheel is clean and dry, we spray the wheel with our wax, ensuring every angle of the spokes are covered. It is then left the cure. The time needed to cure depends on various factors, such as temperature, sunlight, and wind conditions.After the wax is cured we buff off the excess residue with a soft microfibre towel.

The wheels will be left glossy and protected for 1-2 months.

Tar spot removal

All vehicles will be affected by tar spots. These are small black dots which appear on the vehicle, usually on the lower half of the bodywork, and near wheel arches. They are caused by hot road bitumen or tarmac. When the road is hot in the summer, or newly laid during construction or pot hole repair, tiny spots of the road will fly up and dry hard onto the vehicle.

These not only look awful but if left, they can etch themselves through the paintwork. This is done when the tar expands and contracts during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

They are also quite difficult to remove so many inferior valeters just ignore these tar spots. The reason they are difficult to remove is because standard cleaning chemicals simply do not work. A specialised tar remover must be used and care must be taken. If the tar remover is left to dry it can damage the bodywork. Also, if too much force is used, this will cause scratches to the vehicles paintwork and trim.

If the tar is not removed this will cause any ceramic or graphene coating to fail, as the surface needs to be fully decontaminated. We always take extra care and attention when removing tar spots to ensure the highest quality is safely achieved without damaging the vehicle.

Iron fallout removal

Iron fallout is the name given to metal dust and particles which stick to the vehicle.

It is caused by brake dust and industrial factors which is made airborne when a vehicle passes over it. These metal particles stick firmly to the paintwork, glass and trim etc. Some of them are not visible, but some are obvious light brown or red dots.

They are not only rough to the touch and make paintwork look dirty and dull, but also damage the vehicle long term. Damage is caused mainly by the particles etching themselves into the paintwork. This is done when the particles expand and contract during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

Iron fallout cannot be removed by standard valeting chemicals. A specific iron fallout remover must be used. A good quality fallout remover is expensive and smells disgusting, so many valeters do not use it. We use a high quality fallout remover, and take extreme care when using it, to make sure of the best results for our customers. We make sure the product is fully removed from the vehicle as if it is left in seals or crevices, residue will dry and be very hard to remove.

The vehicle will be left with brighter, smoother paintwork, whilst being free from iron contaminants. This is a crucial step to complete before polishing or ceramic coating etc.

Clay bar decontamination

All vehicles will pick up contaminants over time, some clearly visible, some smaller.

A clay bar is a small putty-like substance which is carefully rubbed all over the car’s paintwork and glass. As it passes over the surface, the clay sticks to and removes all sorts of contaminants which are embedded into the pores of the top coat. This can be anything from oils, tar, or fallout which regular washing does not remove.

To complete this we first must thoroughly wash the vehicle. Then we remove as much of the large contaminants such as tar and iron fallout. Once this is completed we can then use the clay. The vehicle will be wet, and a clay lubricant is used to prevent abrasiveness. The clay is rubbed lightly over a small area at a time in a crosshatch pattern.The clay is remoulded between each area, to avoid excess build up of contaminants on the surface of the clay. Then the vehicle is thoroughly rinsed and dried.

Once it is complete, the vehicle will be very smooth with the paintwork “”popping”” with colour because there are no contaminants left to dull the paint.

This is a crucial step to complete before polishing, waxing or ceramic coating.

Single stage machine polish

There are many different types of machine polishing. They use different tools and products to tackle different issues offering various results.

The main purpose of a “single stage machine polish” is to remove light scratches and swirl marks. It is also to give the vehicles paintwork extra clarity, depth and shine. This is achieved by removing (or cutting) a microscopic layer from the top coat or clear coat of paint.

For any type of polishing, the surface must be prepared correctly. We must make sure the paintwork is clean, dry, and free from contamination. If the paintwork is not perfectly clean and dry, then the polishing process can severely damage the paintwork. This is because grit and contaminants will be caught in the polishing pad and dragged over the paintwork. This will cause deep scratches and serious problems.

When we are ready to start polishing, we must choose the correct grade of polisher, compound and pad for the situation and condition of paint. We have years of experience to ensure we get the most out of the process. We polish the vehicle a small area at a time, usually 1-2 feet square. We move the polisher carefully around any swage lines and edges. This is to avoid any damage to the paint.

Severe damage can be caused if the detailer does not take care, or have the relevant skill and experience. If the paint gets too hot, the polishing pad isn’t positioned correctly, too much pressure is used, or its not delivered in a smooth and even fashion, the paint will burn. Once the paint has been burnt, then the only way to repair it is to repaint it, which can be very expensive. We take extreme caution when polishing any vehicle, and train our team to the highest standard, to ensure there are never any issues.

With our “single stage machine polish” we cover 99% of the exterior of the vehicle including the glass. This includes the roof, bonnet, boot, doors and bumpers. Small areas such as door handles, wing mirrors and other tight to reach areas are polished with varying sized polishers and pads. The only areas not covered are door shuts, and tiny gaps in grilles etc. We will polish these if requested though.

The vehicle will be left clear of light scratches and swirl marks whilst being extremely bright, glossy and have depth to the paintwork. It will also be ready to apply any ceramic coating or wax etc. The results are simply beautiful.

5 year ceramic coating

Ceramic coating is a protective layer added to the surface of the vehicle which protects it against the elements, and makes it stay cleaner for longer.

A genuine ceramic coating is a liquid which is made from liquid glass. It is made from SiO2 (silicon dioxide also known as silica), mixed with solvents to make it into a liquid which can be applied to the vehicle. The ceramic coating does not just sit on top of the paintwork, it chemically bonds to the top coat. This process is what makes the coating durable.

We use the highest quality coating on the market, which has a durability of up to 5 years. It is the best possible ceramic coating which can be applied outdoors. This is very convenient considering we are mobile detailers!

The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the paintwork, but the most important factor is the protection. Your vehicle’s paintwork will be protected from dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.

To apply the ceramic coating we first ensure the vehicle is completed clean and free from contamination. Then we perfect the paint by polishing or correcting the paint.

Once the paint is fully prepared we carefully apply the ceramic coating. Extreme care must be taken to ensure the ceramic is applied correctly. Gloves must be worn, to avoid grease from our hands touching the applicator pad. The bottle of coating itself cannot be held by hand for prolonged periods, in case it cures inside the bottle. The correct amount of coating must be applied so a small pipette is used to accurately measure each dose put onto the applicator pad. The cure time is absolutely critical. If the coating is buffed too quickly, the ceramic will not chemically bond properly. If the coating is left too long, the solvents will flash too much, and the whole process of cleaning and polishing will need to be repeated. Not to worry, we are experts in this field and are fully trained with years of experience.

Once the ceramic coating is complete, your vehicle will be ultra glossy, scratch and swirl resistant, protected from the elements and it will be extremely easy to clean for up to 5 years.

Extras
Soft top clean

Soft top and vinyl roofs are prone to going green over time, especially if the vehicle is stored outside. This will not only spoil the look of the vehicle but can also lead to premature degrading of the fabric, causing leaks.

They go green because of the growth of algae and moss which thrive on the fabric, especially in damp, shaded, or humid conditions. The soft top is made of a porous material which retains moisture, creating a great environment for spores, while dirt and organic debris act as a food source.

To clean the roof, we must use a specialised cleaner. We use a high quality cleaner, which not only removes the algae, but kills any spores to help stop regrowth. Firstly we dampen the roof. Then we soak the fabric in the algae remover. Once it has been left to soak for a short time, we agitate the whole area with a soft bristle brush. We always pay extra attention to areas such as seams, because these are often areas affected the most. We then gently rinse the roof with water, and softly dry it to avoid damaging the material.

The roof will be left free from algae, and be back to its original colour.

Engine bay clean

Engine bays are often the dirtiest area of the vehicle. They get clogged with debris, oil, grease and grime. This can make the vehicle look uncared for, especially when selling it.

To clean an engine bay you must take great care, to avoid damaging any vital components.

For our standard engine bay clean we start by dampening the whole area. We then spray the area with an all purpose engine bay cleaner. This will lift dirt, grease and oil. We agitate the dirt with soft brushes in various shapes and sizes. We start with the underside of the bonnet, then move to the top areas of the engine bay. A standard clean covers areas which are easily in sight when the bonnet is open. We then rinse off the area with a low pressure lance. Once it is rinsed, we dry the large areas with a microfibre drying towel, but we use an air blower for other areas. The reason we blow out hard to reach areas is to make sure there isn`t any moisture inside important components such as wiring and switches.

The engine bay will be left clean and tidy, which will keep your vehicle looking nice and show you have taken care of it.

Air con sanitisation canister

All vehicles will accumulate germs over time. These germs can hold up in the seats and carpets, but also in the aircon and vent system.

We use a specially designed anti-bacterial fog which is applied via a compressed canister. This kills bacteria and germs from the whole interior of the vehicle. It reaches areas which valeting and detailing cannot. These are areas such as behind vents and inside the air conditioning system.

Firstly we make sure the interior is fully valeted. Then we start the car, and put the airconditioning on full speed whilst circulating the air internally. We then release the fog from the canister. Lastly we quickly close the car door and leave the canister to work around the vehicle for around 20 minutes.

This will leave the interior free from bacteria, viruses and germs.

Please note – Vehicles which are heavily soiled or have excessive pet hair may incur a small additional charge for the extra time and care.

Diamond

Full detail of exterior and interior – thorough machine polish – ceramic coating of paintwork and wheels

£750

Small/medium car

£780

Large car

£810

SUV

£840+

Van/Pickup or larger

Estimated Time: 20 hours

Interior
Interior vacuum – includes the boot

All vehicles will accumulate dirt and dust from daily wear and tear.

This can make the vehicle look tired and unhygienic. We complete a full vacuum of the interior. A detailing brush is used to reach small gaps such as vents and buttons. Seats are moved back and forth to access hard to reach areas. The boot is also fully vacuumed.

This cleans and freshens up the interior making driving the vehicle more pleasant.

Dash and plastics clean

Over time many of the plastics inside the vehicle get coated in dust and dirt. It can be quite unsightly and if left uncleaned, can become very stubborn to remove.

We clean all of the hard plastics inside the vehicle to remove dirt and grime. All of the tools and chemicals are safe to use on the interior, which means there will be zero scratches, residue or chemical burn.

The dash and plastics will be left clean and dust free, making the vehicle much more comfortable.

Seat shampoo and extraction or leather seat clean

Eventually all seats will show signs of wear and tear due to normal usage.

We wet clean them to keep them looking fresh and tidy. For fabric seats, we use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas. For leather seats, we use leather safe cleaners and soft brushes to agitate the area. We then use soft absorbent cloths to extract the dirt and grime, this is to prevent any scratching from the wet vacuum.

The seats are left clean and fresh for the driver and passengers.

Floor carpet shampoo and extraction – includes the boot

The floor carpets often get very dirty over time due to muddy feet etc. Getting them clean can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The carpets will clean from dirt and grime, and smell nice too.

Floor mat shampoo and extraction

The floor mats are often the first area to build up dirt and grime due to muddy shoes etc. Getting them cleaned can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum.

The mats will be left clean and tidy with classy tramlines in the fabric where possible.

Roof lining shampoo and extraction

Roof linings are often overlooked but they can get very dirty and dull. This is caused by hand prints getting in and out along with marks and stains when loading in and out.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The roof will be left clean, fresh and bright.

Stain removal if required

Stains can happen for any reason, such as food, drink and pets.

Stains can only be removed if the correct chemical and process is used. We use a variety of chemicals, tools and techniques to remove all types of stains. Steam is also used to help loosen stubborn stains. This also hygienically cleans the area and removes odours.

This can really make a huge difference to the appearance of the vehicle and increase its value when reselling or part exchanging.

Steam clean of seats

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The seats will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Steam clean of carpets – including the boot

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The carpets will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Steam clean of floor mats

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The floor mats will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Exterior
Pre wash

All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.

A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.

To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.

We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.

The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,

Two bucket contact wash

Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.

Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.

We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.

We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps. We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.

The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.

Towel dry

Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.

If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.

We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.

Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.

Blow dry of crevices

The reason we blow dry crevices on the vehicle is because some areas are too small to reach with a drying towel.

If the water is left in the crevices, then it will eventually leak onto the bodywork and could leave dirt, grime and water marks. This is especially common from wing mirrors and the front grill.

We use a blow drying which filters the air, to avoid grit being thrown onto the vehicle causing scratches. Then we simply use a soft drying towel where the water is exposed.

This seems like a simple step but it is crucial when the highest quality is needed.

Glass polish

All glass will eventually suffer from fine scratches. This is caused by general use, but also by dirt and grit being caught under wiper blades or in window seals.

This can drastically affect the overall look of your vehicle. Even if the body work is perfect, if the glass doesn’t match it will ruin the overall appearance. There is also a safety aspect, because if the windscreen is covered with fine scratches, oncoming headlight beams will refract off these scratches making it very difficult to see.

The best way to tackle fine scratches on the glass is to polish it. We use a glass specific compound with the correct grade polishing pads. Once the glass is fully cleaned, decontaminated, and dried, the polishing can take place. We use a combination of machine polishing and hand polishing to ensure every inch of the glass is reached.

It is important to use the correct tools, products, and techniques to avoid burning the glass. If incorrect practices are used, the glass will burn and leave it opaque. This usually means the glass will need to be replaced. We use our experience and knowledge to make sure you get the very best results.

A thorough glass polish will remove fine scratches and swirls. Please note that chips and deep scuffs cannot be removed by standard polishing.

Once the glass is polished, it is ready for a protective coating, to help maintain the clean finish.

Glass protection

Glass protection is a coating applied directly to the exterior glass to help keep it clean with clear visibility for a long time.

We use the highest quality coating on the market. Unlike some glass protection which simply sits on top of the glass, ours chemically bonds to the glass giving it a lifespan of up to 2 years or 20,000 miles.

It will leave the glass protected from rain, screen wash, UV rays and general traffic film. This will in turn keep your glass looking cleaner for longer, but also prevent poor visibility, which can be dangerous.

To apply this we must make sure the glass is perfectly clean and free from contamination. Then we carefully apply the product in a crosshatch pattern to ensure it is fully covered. Once it has hardened and cured, we can apply the second stage of the coating to the glass and wiper blades. This stage is to remove any residue left from the original coating. The final step is to thoroughly buff the glass with a plush microfibre towel.

The glass will look incredibly clean with zero smears and smudges. Plus it will be protected for up to 2 years whilst staying cleaner for longer, so routine washes will be needed less frequently.

Door and boot shutter detail

The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.

We make sure these areas are fully detailed by using a range of brushes and tools to clean the hard to reach areas.

Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.

Bonnet shut clean

The bonnet shuts is the area between the engine bay and the bodywork of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the bonnet is open. This means it often gets overlooked when valeting.

We make sure this area is cleaned and dried to the same standard as the exterior valet. Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud from leaking onto the body work when being driven after we leave

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.

Exhaust tip detail

Exhaust tips will always get extremely dirty due to the nature of the combustion engine.

It will get covered in dirt, smoke, and soot which can spoil the look of the whole rear end of the vehicle. It is also extremely difficult to clean.

We use specially designed products which help remove the contamination from the exhaust tip, along with specific tools which are designed for the job. Once it is clean, we use a polish which is designed to hard metals. This brings back the original look of the exhaust tip by removing haze and fine scratches.

Your exhaust will be left clean and shiny adding a nice detail to your vehicle.

Thorough wheel clean

Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.

There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.

For our thorough wheel clean we ensure the whole wheel is left sparkling clean, including the inside barrel. Also we fully decontaminate the whole wheel.

Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the entire wheel and tyre, making sure to clean into the small gaps between and behind the spokes etc. We make sure every inch of the wheel is free from dirt and brake dust, including the barrel.

For a thorough wheel clean you must also decontaminate the wheel fully. Once the pre wash and standard PH neutral wheel cleaner is used, we remove any tar from the wheel. This is small dots of road bitumen or tarmac which melt onto the wheel. We use specialised tar remover and various tools to remove the tar which regular wheel cleaner cannot remove. Secondly we use a specific iron fallout remover. This chemical reacts with any iron particles which are still on the wheel. They are caused by brake dust particles which can be very stubborn to remove. The first wheel cleaner will remove most of the brake dust but a concentrated iron fallout remover gets to the very stubborn iron contaminants which can be embedded into the wheel. Once the wheel is decontaminated, we thoroughly rinse the wheel to ensure there’s no contaminants left behind. We take our time to inspect the wheel ensuring the highest quality.

Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.

The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.

The wheels will be left clean, shiny, fully decontaminated and ready for polishing or coating.

Wheel ceramic

A wheel ceramic coating is a protective layer added to the wheels which protects it against the elements, and makes it stay cleaner for longer.

A genuine wheel ceramic coating is a liquid which is made from liquid glass. It is made from SiO2 (silicon dioxide also known as silica), mixed with solvents to make it into a liquid which can be applied to the vehicle. The ceramic coating does not just sit on top of the wheels, it chemically bonds to the top coat. This process is what makes the coating durable. The main difference between a normal ceramic coating and one designed for wheels, is the temperature rating. Our wheel coating can reach up to 600 degrees celcius, which means it will not fail as the wheels get hot with the temperature from the brakes.

We use the highest quality coating on the market, which has a durability of up to 2 years. It is the best possible ceramic coating which can be applied outdoors. This is very convenient considering we are mobile detailers!

The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the wheels, but the most important factor is the protection. Your wheels will be protected from brake dust, dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.

To apply the wheel coating we first ensure the wheels are completed clean and free from contamination.

Once the wheels are fully prepared we carefully apply the coating. Extreme care must be taken to ensure the ceramic is applied correctly. Gloves must be worn, to avoid grease from our hands touching the applicator pad. The bottle of coating itself cannot be held by hand for prolonged periods, in case it cures inside the bottle. The correct amount of coating must be applied so a small pipette is used to accurately measure each dose put onto the applicator pad. The cure time is absolutely critical. If the coating is buffed too quickly, the ceramic will not chemically bond properly. If the coating is left too long, the solvents will flash too much, and the whole process of cleaning and polishing will need to be repeated. Not to worry, we are experts in this field and are fully trained with years of experience.

Once the wheel ceramic coating is complete, they will be ultra glossy, scratch and swirl resistant, protected from the elements and it will be extremely easy to clean for up to 2 years.

Tar spot removal

All vehicles will be affected by tar spots. These are small black dots which appear on the vehicle, usually on the lower half of the bodywork, and near wheel arches. They are caused by hot road bitumen or tarmac. When the road is hot in the summer, or newly laid during construction or pot hole repair, tiny spots of the road will fly up and dry hard onto the vehicle.

These not only look awful but if left, they can etch themselves through the paintwork. This is done when the tar expands and contracts during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

They are also quite difficult to remove so many inferior valeters just ignore these tar spots. The reason they are difficult to remove is because standard cleaning chemicals simply do not work. A specialised tar remover must be used and care must be taken. If the tar remover is left to dry it can damage the bodywork. Also, if too much force is used, this will cause scratches to the vehicles paintwork and trim.

If the tar is not removed this will cause any ceramic or graphene coating to fail, as the surface needs to be fully decontaminated. We always take extra care and attention when removing tar spots to ensure the highest quality is safely achieved without damaging the vehicle.

Iron fallout removal

Iron fallout is the name given to metal dust and particles which stick to the vehicle.

It is caused by brake dust and industrial factors which is made airborne when a vehicle passes over it. These metal particles stick firmly to the paintwork, glass and trim etc. Some of them are not visible, but some are obvious light brown or red dots.

They are not only rough to the touch and make paintwork look dirty and dull, but also damage the vehicle long term. Damage is caused mainly by the particles etching themselves into the paintwork. This is done when the particles expand and contract during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

Iron fallout cannot be removed by standard valeting chemicals. A specific iron fallout remover must be used. A good quality fallout remover is expensive and smells disgusting, so many valeters do not use it. We use a high quality fallout remover, and take extreme care when using it, to make sure of the best results for our customers. We make sure the product is fully removed from the vehicle as if it is left in seals or crevices, residue will dry and be very hard to remove.

The vehicle will be left with brighter, smoother paintwork, whilst being free from iron contaminants. This is a crucial step to complete before polishing or ceramic coating etc.

Clay bar decontamination

All vehicles will pick up contaminants over time, some clearly visible, some smaller.

A clay bar is a small putty-like substance which is carefully rubbed all over the car’s paintwork and glass. As it passes over the surface, the clay sticks to and removes all sorts of contaminants which are embedded into the pores of the top coat. This can be anything from oils, tar, or fallout which regular washing does not remove.

To complete this we first must thoroughly wash the vehicle. Then we remove as much of the large contaminants such as tar and iron fallout. Once this is completed we can then use the clay. The vehicle will be wet, and a clay lubricant is used to prevent abrasiveness. The clay is rubbed lightly over a small area at a time in a crosshatch pattern.The clay is remoulded between each area, to avoid excess build up of contaminants on the surface of the clay. Then the vehicle is thoroughly rinsed and dried.

Once it is complete, the vehicle will be very smooth with the paintwork “popping” with colour because there are no contaminants left to dull the paint.

This is a crucial step to complete before polishing, waxing or ceramic coating.

2 Stage machine polish

There are many different types of machine polishing. They use different tools and products to tackle different issues offering various results.

The main purpose of a “2 stage machine polish” is to remove deeper scratches and swirl marks. It is also to give the vehicles paintwork a deep clarity, with extreme depth and shine. This is achieved by removing (or cutting) a microscopic layer from the top coat or clear coat of paint, then polishing it again with a much finer grade of polish.

For any type of polishing, the surface must be prepared correctly. We must make sure the paintwork is clean, dry, and free from contamination. If the paintwork is not perfectly clean and dry, then the polishing process can severely damage the paintwork. This is because grit and contaminants will be caught in the polishing pad and dragged over the paintwork. This will cause deep scratches and serious problems.

When we are ready to start polishing, we must choose the correct grade of polisher, compound and pad for the situation and condition of paint. We have years of experience to ensure we get the most out of the process. We polish the vehicle a small area at a time, usually 1-2 feet square. We move the polisher carefully around any swage lines and edges. This is to avoid any damage to the paint.

Severe damage can be caused if the detailer does not take care, or have the relevant skill and experience. If the paint gets too hot, the polishing pad isn’t positioned correctly, too much pressure is used, or its not delivered in a smooth and even fashion, the paint will burn. Once the paint has been burnt, then the only way to repair it is to repaint it, which can be very expensive. We take extreme caution when polishing any vehicle, and train our team to the highest standard, to ensure there are never any issues.

With our “2 stage machine polish” we cover 99% of the exterior of the vehicle including the glass. This includes the roof, bonnet, boot, doors and bumpers. Small areas such as door handles, wing mirrors and other tight to reach areas are polished with varying sized polishers and pads. The only areas not covered are door shuts, and tiny gaps in grilles etc. We will polish these if requested though. As the name suggests, there are 2 main stages; firstly a coarse polish and pad is used to remove deeper scratches and swirl marks. Secondly a fine grade polish and pad is used to give a real warmth and depth to the paint by removing any marks left by the coarse grade.

The vehicle will be left clear of light scratches and swirl marks whilst being extremely bright, glossy and have real depth to the paintwork. It will also be ready to apply any ceramic coating or wax etc. The results are simply fantastic, especially on vehicles which have never been polished.

5 year ceramic coating

Ceramic coating is a protective layer added to the surface of the vehicle which protects it against the elements, and makes it stay cleaner for longer.

A genuine ceramic coating is a liquid which is made from liquid glass. It is made from SiO2 (silicon dioxide also known as silica), mixed with solvents to make it into a liquid which can be applied to the vehicle. The ceramic coating does not just sit on top of the paintwork, it chemically bonds to the top coat. This process is what makes the coating durable.

We use the highest quality coating on the market, which has a durability of up to 5 years. It is the best possible ceramic coating which can be applied outdoors. This is very convenient considering we are mobile detailers!

The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the paintwork, but the most important factor is the protection. Your vehicle’s paintwork will be protected from dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.

To apply the ceramic coating we first ensure the vehicle is completed clean and free from contamination. Then we perfect the paint by polishing or correcting the paint.

Once the paint is fully prepared we carefully apply the ceramic coating. Extreme care must be taken to ensure the ceramic is applied correctly. Gloves must be worn, to avoid grease from our hands touching the applicator pad. The bottle of coating itself cannot be held by hand for prolonged periods, in case it cures inside the bottle. The correct amount of coating must be applied so a small pipette is used to accurately measure each dose put onto the applicator pad. The cure time is absolutely critical. If the coating is buffed too quickly, the ceramic will not chemically bond properly. If the coating is left too long, the solvents will flash too much, and the whole process of cleaning and polishing will need to be repeated. Not to worry, we are experts in this field and are fully trained with years of experience.

Once the ceramic coating is complete, your vehicle will be ultra glossy, scratch and swirl resistant, protected from the elements and it will be extremely easy to clean for up to 5 years.

Extras
Soft top clean and protection

Soft top and vinyl roofs are prone to going green over time, especially if the vehicle is stored outside. This will not only spoil the look of the vehicle but can also lead to premature degrading of the fabric, causing leaks.

They go green because of the growth of algae and moss which thrive on the fabric, especially in damp, shaded, or humid conditions. The soft top is made of a porous material which retains moisture, creating a great environment for spores, while dirt and organic debris act as a food source.

To clean the roof, we must use a specialised cleaner. We use a high quality cleaner, which not only removes the algae, but kills any spores to help stop regrowth. Firstly we dampen the roof. Then we soak the fabric in the algae remover. Once it has been left to soak for a short time, we agitate the whole area with a soft bristle brush. We always pay extra attention to areas such as seams, because these are often areas affected the most. We then gently rinse the roof with water, and softly dry it to avoid damaging the material.

To protect the roof we use the very best product on the market. The roof will be protected for up to 12 months. The reason it is so durable, is because it’s designed with nano technology meaning it coats each fibre individually. It repels water, dirt and oils. It also kills 99% of bacteria and helps prevent algae growth.

The roof will be left free from algae, dirt and grime whilst being protected for up to 12 months.

Engine bay detail

“Engine bays are often the dirtiest area of the vehicle. They get clogged with debris, oil, grease and grime. This can make the vehicle look uncared for, especially when selling it.

To detail an engine bay you must take great care, to avoid damaging any vital components.

For our engine bay detail we start by dampening the whole area. We then spray the area with a material specific cleaner. This will lift dirt, grease and oil. We agitate the dirt with soft brushes in various shapes and sizes. We start with the underside of the bonnet, then move to the engine bay. A detail covers every area under the bonnet.

We then hand polish and restore any areas which are oxidised, damaged or faded.

We then rinse off the area with a low pressure lance. Once it is rinsed, we dry the large areas with a microfibre drying towel, but we use an air blower for other areas. The reason we blow out hard to reach areas is to make sure there isn`t any moisture inside important components such as wiring and switches.

The engine bay will be left clean and tidy, which will keep your vehicle looking nice and show you have taken care of it.

Headlight resoration with ceramic coating

Over time, most headlights and brake lights will turn yellow. It ruins the look of the vehicle but can also be dangerous if the headlight beam is not as bright as it should be.

This is because of oxidisation of the acrylic. The lights are coated in a clear layer to protect the acrylic, but over time this degrades and fails. The acrylic lenses then oxidise when exposed to UV rays from the sun.

To repair this we must remove all of the yellow layer which is on the light. We do this by wet sanding the light. Firstly we use masking tape around the light to protect the surrounding areas. Then we wet sand the light, starting with a coarse grade of 600 grit repeatedly working slowly down to a very fine grade of 3000 grit. If you do not use multiple grades and sanding, there will be obvious scratches left in the light. Once the sanding is complete we use a cutting compound on a machine polisher to remove any fine marks left from sanding. Then we use a fine grade polish via machine, to make the lenses crystal clear.

The best way to coat the lenses is to use a ceramic coating. We use the highest quality ceramic coating on the market which lasts up to 5 years. The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the paintwork, but the most important factor is the protection. Your vehicle’s paintwork will be protected from dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.

The lights will be left crystal clean, which will transform the whole look of your vehicle. The lights will be fully protected for up to 5 years.

Brake light restoration with ceramic coating

Over time, most headlights and brake lights will turn yellow. It ruins the look of the vehicle but can also be dangerous if the headlight beam is not as bright as it should be.

This is because of oxidisation of the acrylic. The lights are coated in a clear layer to protect the acrylic, but over time this degrades and fails. The acrylic lenses then oxidise when exposed to UV rays from the sun.

To repair this we must remove all of the yellow layer which is on the light. We do this by wet sanding the light. Firstly we use masking tape around the light to protect the surrounding areas. Then we wet sand the light, starting with a coarse grade of 600 grit repeatedly working slowly down to a very fine grade of 3000 grit. If you do not use multiple grades and sanding, there will be obvious scratches left in the light. Once the sanding is complete we use a cutting compound on a machine polisher to remove any fine marks left from sanding. Then we use a fine grade polish via machine, to make the lenses crystal clear.

The best way to coat the lenses is to use a ceramic coating. We use the highest quality ceramic coating on the market which lasts up to 5 years. The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the paintwork, but the most important factor is the protection. Your vehicle’s paintwork will be protected from dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.

The lights will be left crystal clean, which will transform the whole look of your vehicle. The lights will be fully protected for up to 5 years.

Air con sanitisation canister

All vehicles will accumulate germs over time. These germs can hold up in the seats and carpets, but also in the aircon and vent system.

We use a specially designed anti-bacterial fog which is applied via a compressed canister. This kills bacteria and germs from the whole interior of the vehicle. It reaches areas which valeting and detailing cannot. These are areas such as behind vents and inside the air conditioning system.

Firstly we make sure the interior is fully valeted. Then we start the car, and put the airconditioning on full speed whilst circulating the air internally. We then release the fog from the canister. Lastly we quickly close the car door and leave the canister to work around the vehicle for around 20 minutes.

This will leave the interior free from bacteria, viruses and germs.

'The Works' detail package

Full detail of exterior and interior – Full paint correction – ceramic coating of paintwork wheels, glass, trim and engine bay

£1200

Small/medium car

£1250

Large car

£1300

SUV

£1350+

Van/Pickup or larger

Estimated Time: 40 – 60 hours

Interior
Interior vacuum – includes the boot

All vehicles will accumulate dirt and dust from daily wear and tear.

This can make the vehicle look tired and unhygienic. We complete a full vacuum of the interior. A detailing brush is used to reach small gaps such as vents and buttons. Seats are moved back and forth to access hard to reach areas. The boot is also fully vacuumed.

This cleans and freshens up the interior making driving the vehicle more pleasant.

Thorough dash and plastics clean

Some vehicles are in worse condition than others. This could be for many reasons such as occupation, children or pets. The dirt and grime may be stubborn and in hard to reach areas.

This is a deep clean of all hard plastics inside the vehicle. Detailing tools are used for small gaps and crevices. A steam cleaner is used where possible on stubborn stains. All of the tools and chemicals are safe to use on the interior, which means there will be zero scratches, residue or chemical burn.

The interior plastics are left hygienically clean, which is safer for the passengers.

Dash and plastics dressing

Dressing the plastics adds a gloss and protective layer to all of the hard plastics. This is to make them look great but also help prevent dirt from sticking to them.

We always use high quality safe chemicals and cloths. This avoids any chemical burn or scratches. We do not apply dressing to the steering wheel or pedals etc, as this may cause them to be slippery.

The plastics will be left looking clean and glossy.

Seat shampoo and extraction or leather seat clean

Eventually all seats will show signs of wear and tear due to normal usage.

We wet clean them to keep them looking fresh and tidy. For fabric seats, we use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas. For leather seats, we use leather safe cleaners and soft brushes to agitate the area. We then use soft absorbent cloths to extract the dirt and grime, this is to prevent any scratching from the wet vacuum.

The seats are left clean and fresh for the driver and passengers.

Floor carpet shampoo and extraction – includes the boot

The floor carpets often get very dirty over time due to muddy feet etc. Getting them clean can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The carpets will clean from dirt and grime, and smell nice too.

Floor mat shampoo and extraction

The floor mats are often the first area to build up dirt and grime due to muddy shoes etc. Getting them cleaned can improve the look and hygiene of your vehicle.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum.

The mats will be left clean and tidy with classy tramlines in the fabric where possible.

Roof lining shampoo and extraction

Roof linings are often overlooked but they can get very dirty and dull. This is caused by hand prints getting in and out along with marks and stains when loading in and out.

We use a high quality shampoo diluted to the correct ratio to avoid chemical stains. We then agitate the area with a brush suitable for the type of fabric, this avoids any damage to the cloth or seams etc. Then we extract the dirt and grime with a wet vacuum, using different shape attachments for harder to reach areas.

The roof will be left clean, fresh and bright.

Stain removal if required

Stains can happen for any reason, such as food, drink and pets.

Stains can only be removed if the correct chemical and process is used. We use a variety of chemicals, tools and techniques to remove all types of stains. Steam is also used to help loosen stubborn stains. This also hygienically cleans the area and removes odours.

This can really make a huge difference to the appearance of the vehicle and increase its value when reselling or part exchanging.

Steam clean of seats

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The seats will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Steam clean of carpets – including the boot

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The carpets will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Steam clean of floor mats

Steam cleaning is vital for a truly thorough clean.

There are many advantages such as it breaks down dirt and stains. The high heat and moisture from the steam penetrate the fabric fibers, which helps to loosen and lift embedded dirt, grime, and stubborn stains from within the material.

It sanitizes and kills pathogens. The high temperature of the steam acts as a natural sterilizer, killing up to 99.9% of germs, bacteria, allergens, and dust mites. This is particularly beneficial for pet owners or people with allergies.

It refreshes and deodorizes: Steam helps to eliminate unpleasant odours that can get trapped in the fabric, leaving it refreshed and clean.

There are no chemicals in steam cleaning meaning it removes dirt and stains using only heat and water, minimizing the need for harsh chemical detergents that could potentially damage the fabric or leave behind irritating residues.

The floor mats will be left hygienically clean with zero smells and odours.

Fabric or leather protection of seats

For the best results, it is always advised to protect all of the soft materials inside the vehicle.

We use specialist high end products to protect and guard all of the interior materials.The coating blocks liquids (like spilled drinks) and other aggressors (like muddy shoes or wet clothes) from penetrating the fabric fibers. This prevents permanent staining.

Protection provides easier cleaning by preventing penetration, the coating keeps dirt and grime on the surface, making cleanup much quicker and easier.

Mould and dirt prevention from the nano-coating technology helps deter dirt, liquid, and mould from settling into the fabric, which contributes to a more hygienic interior.

Protection increases lifespan by reducing wear from staining and making it easier to keep the seats and floors clean, the protection helps to increase the overall lifespan of the vehicle’s interior fabric components.

Leather protection for the vehicle’s interior is a treatment that applies a specialized barrier to the leather surfaces (seats, dash, trim) to preserve their appearance and integrity over time.

It generally works in the following ways:
Defense against wear and tear. Offering UV and heat protection by a protective layer acts like a sunscreen, shielding the leather from damaging UVA and UVB rays, which are the main causes of fading, drying, and cracking.
Abrasion resistance is created by a barrier that reduces the friction and wear caused by constantly getting in and out of the vehicle, which is particularly important for the high-traffic side bolsters of the driver’s seat.
Oil damage is reduced by stopping the natural oils from your skin and moisturizers from breaking down the leather’s factory finish, which can lead to discoloration and premature wear.
Stain resistance is increased by the repelling action of the protection. This significantly reduces the risk of permanent staining from food, drinks, and dye transfer (like from dark denim).

The goal of leather protection is to prolong the life and appearance of your leather interior, keeping it looking and feeling new, and making routine maintenance less of a chore. For the best results, it’s typically applied after a thorough deep clean of the leather.

Fabric protection of carpets – including the boot

For the best results, it is always advised to protect all of the soft materials inside the vehicle.

We use specialist high end products to protect and guard all of the interior materials.The coating blocks liquids (like spilled drinks) and other aggressors (like muddy shoes or wet clothes) from penetrating the fabric fibers. This prevents permanent staining.

Protection provides easier cleaning by preventing penetration, the coating keeps dirt and grime on the surface, making cleanup much quicker and easier.

Mould and dirt prevention from the nano-coating technology helps deter dirt, liquid, and mould from settling into the fabric, which contributes to a more hygienic interior.

Protection increases lifespan by reducing wear from staining and making it easier to keep the seats and floors clean, the protection helps to increase the overall lifespan of the vehicle’s interior fabric components.

Leather protection for the vehicle’s interior is a treatment that applies a specialized barrier to the leather surfaces (seats, dash, trim) to preserve their appearance and integrity over time.

It generally works in the following ways:
Defense against wear and tear. Offering UV and heat protection by a protective layer acts like a sunscreen, shielding the leather from damaging UVA and UVB rays, which are the main causes of fading, drying, and cracking.
Abrasion resistance is created by a barrier that reduces the friction and wear caused by constantly getting in and out of the vehicle, which is particularly important for the high-traffic side bolsters of the driver’s seat.
Oil damage is reduced by stopping the natural oils from your skin and moisturizers from breaking down the leather’s factory finish, which can lead to discoloration and premature wear.
Stain resistance is increased by the repelling action of the protection. This significantly reduces the risk of permanent staining from food, drinks, and dye transfer (like from dark denim).

The goal of leather protection is to prolong the life and appearance of your leather interior, keeping it looking and feeling new, and making routine maintenance less of a chore. For the best results, it’s typically applied after a thorough deep clean of the leather.

Fabric or leather protection of floor mats

For the best results, it is always advised to protect all of the soft materials inside the vehicle.

We use specialist high end products to protect and guard all of the interior materials.The coating blocks liquids (like spilled drinks) and other aggressors (like muddy shoes or wet clothes) from penetrating the fabric fibers. This prevents permanent staining.

Protection provides easier cleaning by preventing penetration, the coating keeps dirt and grime on the surface, making cleanup much quicker and easier.

Mould and dirt prevention from the nano-coating technology helps deter dirt, liquid, and mould from settling into the fabric, which contributes to a more hygienic interior.

Protection increases lifespan by reducing wear from staining and making it easier to keep the seats and floors clean, the protection helps to increase the overall lifespan of the vehicle’s interior fabric components.

Leather protection for the vehicle’s interior is a treatment that applies a specialized barrier to the leather surfaces (seats, dash, trim) to preserve their appearance and integrity over time.

It generally works in the following ways:
Defense against wear and tear. Offering UV and heat protection by a protective layer acts like a sunscreen, shielding the leather from damaging UVA and UVB rays, which are the main causes of fading, drying, and cracking.
Abrasion resistance is created by a barrier that reduces the friction and wear caused by constantly getting in and out of the vehicle, which is particularly important for the high-traffic side bolsters of the driver’s seat.
Oil damage is reduced by stopping the natural oils from your skin and moisturizers from breaking down the leather’s factory finish, which can lead to discoloration and premature wear.
Stain resistance is increased by the repelling action of the protection. This significantly reduces the risk of permanent staining from food, drinks, and dye transfer (like from dark denim).

The goal of leather protection is to prolong the life and appearance of your leather interior, keeping it looking and feeling new, and making routine maintenance less of a chore. For the best results, it’s typically applied after a thorough deep clean of the leather.

Fabric or leather protection of roof lining

For the best results, it is always advised to protect all of the soft materials inside the vehicle.

We use specialist high end products to protect and guard all of the interior materials.The coating blocks liquids (like spilled drinks) and other aggressors (like muddy shoes or wet clothes) from penetrating the fabric fibers. This prevents permanent staining.

Protection provides easier cleaning by preventing penetration, the coating keeps dirt and grime on the surface, making cleanup much quicker and easier.

Mould and dirt prevention from the nano-coating technology helps deter dirt, liquid, and mould from settling into the fabric, which contributes to a more hygienic interior.

Protection increases lifespan by reducing wear from staining and making it easier to keep the seats and floors clean, the protection helps to increase the overall lifespan of the vehicle’s interior fabric components.

Leather protection for the vehicle’s interior is a treatment that applies a specialized barrier to the leather surfaces (seats, dash, trim) to preserve their appearance and integrity over time.

It generally works in the following ways:
Defense against wear and tear. Offering UV and heat protection by a protective layer acts like a sunscreen, shielding the leather from damaging UVA and UVB rays, which are the main causes of fading, drying, and cracking.
Abrasion resistance is created by a barrier that reduces the friction and wear caused by constantly getting in and out of the vehicle, which is particularly important for the high-traffic side bolsters of the driver’s seat.
Oil damage is reduced by stopping the natural oils from your skin and moisturizers from breaking down the leather’s factory finish, which can lead to discoloration and premature wear.
Stain resistance is increased by the repelling action of the protection. This significantly reduces the risk of permanent staining from food, drinks, and dye transfer (like from dark denim).

The goal of leather protection is to prolong the life and appearance of your leather interior, keeping it looking and feeling new, and making routine maintenance less of a chore. For the best results, it’s typically applied after a thorough deep clean of the leather.

Exterior
Pre wash

All vehicles will build up a layer of dirt and grime over time.

A good pre wash is used to remove as much dirt as possible from the vehicle, before it is touched by hand. This is to stop any grit and abrasives scratching the vehicle by being rubbed against the bodywork during the contact wash.

To do this we use a snowfoam cannon to evenly spread the pre wash over the vehicle. We use PH neutral, non caustic chemicals to make sure none of the vehicle`s paint or trim is left with chemical burn. We also make sure none of the chemical is left to dry as this can damage the vehicle.

We make sure this part of the valet is very thorough. This is because if there is any kind of abrasive grit or dirt left over, it can seriously damage the vehicle during the contact wash.

The vehicle will be left completely free from loose dirt and ready for the contact wash,

Two bucket contact wash

Once the vehicle has had a thorough pre wash, the contact wash can begin.

Firsty we use two buckets, one with shampoo and one with just water. We use a high quality soft microfibre wash mitt. We make sure the mitt is perfectly clean before touching the vehicle. We can do this by rinsing it in the bucket with just water inside. We use a tool called a “grit guard” in each bucket which helps keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket, and away from the mitt. This is to make sure there isn’t any dirt or grit trapped on the mitt, which could scratch the vehicle.

We then wash the vehicle one panel at a time, being sure to get to every edge of the panel and repeating the process on each panel. We follow exactly the same routine for every vehicle which ensures there are no areas missed. To keep the mitt clean, we rinse it after every single panel and visually check it before touching the vehicle.

We never let the shampoo dry on the vehicle which can cause chemical burn. The vehicle is then thoroughly rinsed with water to make sure there is no chemical left on the bodywork or any crevices. Again, this is to avoid chemical burn, but also to prevent build up in hard to reach areas like seals and panel gaps.
We take our time and double check our work.The whole process is to ensure the highest quality possible.

The vehicle is left clean and ready for the next stage of the valet.

Towel dry

Once clean, the vehicle needs to be dried.

If the water is left to dry on its own, it will leave water marks. These can be incredibly difficult to remove, especially if they’re repeatedly left.

We use high quality microfibre drying towels on every vehicle. If an inferior quality towel is used, this can cause scratches and swirl marks on the bodywork. Also, if the towel doesn’t properly absorb the water, then water marks and streaks can be left.

Once properly cleaned and dried, the vehicle is ready for the next stage of the valet.

Blow dry of crevices

The reason we blow dry crevices on the vehicle is because some areas are too small to reach with a drying towel.

If the water is left in the crevices, then it will eventually leak onto the bodywork and could leave dirt, grime and water marks. This is especially common from wing mirrors and the front grill.

We use a blow drying which filters the air, to avoid grit being thrown onto the vehicle causing scratches. Then we simply use a soft drying towel where the water is exposed.

This seems like a simple step but it is crucial when the highest quality is needed.

Glass polish

All glass will eventually suffer from fine scratches. This is caused by general use, but also by dirt and grit being caught under wiper blades or in window seals.

This can drastically affect the overall look of your vehicle. Even if the body work is perfect, if the glass doesn’t match it will ruin the overall appearance. There is also a safety aspect, because if the windscreen is covered with fine scratches, oncoming headlight beams will refract off these scratches making it very difficult to see.

The best way to tackle fine scratches on the glass is to polish it. We use a glass specific compound with the correct grade polishing pads. Once the glass is fully cleaned, decontaminated, and dried, the polishing can take place. We use a combination of machine polishing and hand polishing to ensure every inch of the glass is reached.

It is important to use the correct tools, products, and techniques to avoid burning the glass. If incorrect practices are used, the glass will burn and leave it opaque. This usually means the glass will need to be replaced. We use our experience and knowledge to make sure you get the very best results.

A thorough glass polish will remove fine scratches and swirls. Please note that chips and deep scuffs cannot be removed by standard polishing.

Once the glass is polished, it is ready for a protective coating, to help maintain the clean finish.

Glass protection

Glass protection is a coating applied directly to the exterior glass to help keep it clean with clear visibility for a long time.

We use the highest quality coating on the market. Unlike some glass protection which simply sits on top of the glass, ours chemically bonds to the glass giving it a lifespan of up to 2 years or 20,000 miles.

It will leave the glass protected from rain, screen wash, UV rays and general traffic film. This will in turn keep your glass looking cleaner for longer, but also prevent poor visibility, which can be dangerous.

To apply this we must make sure the glass is perfectly clean and free from contamination. Then we carefully apply the product in a crosshatch pattern to ensure it is fully covered. Once it has hardened and cured, we can apply the second stage of the coating to the glass and wiper blades. This stage is to remove any residue left from the original coating. The final step is to thoroughly buff the glass with a plush microfibre towel.

The glass will look incredibly clean with zero smears and smudges. Plus it will be protected for up to 2 years whilst staying cleaner for longer, so routine washes will be needed less frequently.

Door and boot shutter detail      

The door and boot shutters are the areas between the interior and exterior of the vehicle. They can only be seen when the doors or boot is open. This means they often get overlooked when valeting.

We make sure these areas are fully detailed by using a range of brushes and tools to clean the hard to reach areas.

Not only to improve the appearance of the vehicle, but also to prevent dirt and mud touching the passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle.

These small touches can really make a huge difference to the overall quality of the valet.

Exhaust tip detail

Exhaust tips will always get extremely dirty due to the nature of the combustion engine.

It will get covered in dirt, smoke, and soot which can spoil the look of the whole rear end of the vehicle. It is also extremely difficult to clean.

We use specially designed products which help remove the contamination from the exhaust tip, along with specific tools which are designed for the job. Once it is clean, we use a polish which is designed to hard metals. This brings back the original look of the exhaust tip by removing haze and fine scratches.

Your exhaust will be left clean and shiny adding a nice detail to your vehicle.

Thorough wheel clean

Clean wheels are a vital part of any good valet. Nice clean wheels can really improve the look of your vehicle, but the problem is they are often the first areas to get dirty.

There are different levels of wheel clean, which are offered on our different packages.

For our thorough wheel clean we ensure the whole wheel is left sparkling clean, including the inside barrel. Also we fully decontaminate the whole wheel.

Firstly we use a snow foam cannon to pre wash the wheels and thoroughly rinse them. This removes as much of the dirt and brake dust as possible before the wheels are even touched. Then we soak the wheels with a high grade, PH neutral chemical. This loosens the ground in brake dust and grime. We then use various sized brushes to agitate the dirt from the entire wheel and tyre, making sure to clean into the small gaps between and behind the spokes etc. We make sure every inch of the wheel is free from dirt and brake dust, including the barrel.

For a thorough wheel clean you must also decontaminate the wheel fully. Once the pre wash and standard PH neutral wheel cleaner is used, we remove any tar from the wheel. This is small dots of road bitumen or tarmac which melt onto the wheel. We use specialised tar remover and various tools to remove the tar which regular wheel cleaner cannot remove. Secondly we use a specific iron fallout remover. This chemical reacts with any iron particles which are still on the wheel. They are caused by brake dust particles which can be very stubborn to remove. The first wheel cleaner will remove most of the brake dust but a concentrated iron fallout remover gets to the very stubborn iron contaminants which can be embedded into the wheel. Once the wheel is decontaminated, we thoroughly rinse the wheel to ensure there’s no contaminants left behind. We take our time to inspect the wheel ensuring the highest quality.

Once the wheel is thoroughly rinsed we use a soft microfibre drying towel to dry the wheel which will prevent water spots.

The important part to all wheel cleaning is to use chemicals and brushes, which do not burn or scratch the wheel. Not only to keep them looking nice, but because future dirt and brake dust will stick a lot more readily if the wheel is scratched.

The wheels will be left clean, shiny, fully decontaminated and ready for polishing or coating.

Wheel ceramic

A wheel ceramic coating is a protective layer added to the wheels which protects it against the elements, and makes it stay cleaner for longer.

A genuine wheel ceramic coating is a liquid which is made from liquid glass. It is made from SiO2 (silicon dioxide also known as silica), mixed with solvents to make it into a liquid which can be applied to the vehicle. The ceramic coating does not just sit on top of the wheels, it chemically bonds to the top coat. This process is what makes the coating durable. The main difference between a normal ceramic coating and one designed for wheels, is the temperature rating. Our wheel coating can reach up to 600 degrees celcius, which means it will not fail as the wheels get hot with the temperature from the brakes.

We use the highest quality coating on the market, which has a durability of up to 2 years. It is the best possible ceramic coating which can be applied outdoors. This is very convenient considering we are mobile detailers!

The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the wheels, but the most important factor is the protection. Your wheels will be protected from brake dust, dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.

To apply the wheel coating we first ensure the wheels are completed clean and free from contamination.

Once the wheels are fully prepared we carefully apply the coating. Extreme care must be taken to ensure the ceramic is applied correctly. Gloves must be worn, to avoid grease from our hands touching the applicator pad. The bottle of coating itself cannot be held by hand for prolonged periods, in case it cures inside the bottle. The correct amount of coating must be applied so a small pipette is used to accurately measure each dose put onto the applicator pad. The cure time is absolutely critical. If the coating is buffed too quickly, the ceramic will not chemically bond properly. If the coating is left too long, the solvents will flash too much, and the whole process of cleaning and polishing will need to be repeated. Not to worry, we are experts in this field and are fully trained with years of experience.

Once the wheel ceramic coating is complete, they will be ultra glossy, scratch and swirl resistant, protected from the elements and it will be extremely easy to clean for up to 2 years.

Tar spot removal

All vehicles will be affected by tar spots. These are small black dots which appear on the vehicle, usually on the lower half of the bodywork, and near wheel arches. They are caused by hot road bitumen or tarmac. When the road is hot in the summer, or newly laid during construction or pot hole repair, tiny spots of the road will fly up and dry hard onto the vehicle.

These not only look awful but if left, they can etch themselves through the paintwork. This is done when the tar expands and contracts during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

They are also quite difficult to remove so many inferior valeters just ignore these tar spots. The reason they are difficult to remove is because standard cleaning chemicals simply do not work. A specialised tar remover must be used and care must be taken. If the tar remover is left to dry it can damage the bodywork. Also, if too much force is used, this will cause scratches to the vehicles paintwork and trim.

If the tar is not removed this will cause any ceramic or graphene coating to fail, as the surface needs to be fully decontaminated. We always take extra care and attention when removing tar spots to ensure the highest quality is safely achieved without damaging the vehicle.

Iron fallout removal

Iron fallout is the name given to metal dust and particles which stick to the vehicle.

It is caused by brake dust and industrial factors which is made airborne when a vehicle passes over it. These metal particles stick firmly to the paintwork, glass and trim etc. Some of them are not visible, but some are obvious light brown or red dots.

They are not only rough to the touch and make paintwork look dirty and dull, but also damage the vehicle long term. Damage is caused mainly by the particles etching themselves into the paintwork. This is done when the particles expand and contract during different weather or throughout a warm day and cool night. It will eventually damage the paint severely and cause symptoms like lacquer peel and blemishes.

Iron fallout cannot be removed by standard valeting chemicals. A specific iron fallout remover must be used. A good quality fallout remover is expensive and smells disgusting, so many valeters do not use it. We use a high quality fallout remover, and take extreme care when using it, to make sure of the best results for our customers. We make sure the product is fully removed from the vehicle as if it is left in seals or crevices, residue will dry and be very hard to remove.

The vehicle will be left with brighter, smoother paintwork, whilst being free from iron contaminants. This is a crucial step to complete before polishing or ceramic coating etc.

Clay bar decontamination

All vehicles will pick up contaminants over time, some clearly visible, some smaller.

A clay bar is a small putty-like substance which is carefully rubbed all over the car’s paintwork and glass. As it passes over the surface, the clay sticks to and removes all sorts of contaminants which are embedded into the pores of the top coat. This can be anything from oils, tar, or fallout which regular washing does not remove.

To complete this we first must thoroughly wash the vehicle. Then we remove as much of the large contaminants such as tar and iron fallout. Once this is completed we can then use the clay. The vehicle will be wet, and a clay lubricant is used to prevent abrasiveness. The clay is rubbed lightly over a small area at a time in a crosshatch pattern.The clay is remoulded between each area, to avoid excess build up of contaminants on the surface of the clay. Then the vehicle is thoroughly rinsed and dried.

Once it is complete, the vehicle will be very smooth with the paintwork “”popping”” with colour because there are no contaminants left to dull the paint.

This is a crucial step to complete before polishing, waxing or ceramic coating.

Paint correction

Paint correction is the term we use when we aim to bring the paintwork back to, or better than, its original condition.

There are a few reasons you may want the paint to be corrected on your vehicle. The paintwork may look tired or dull. It might have scratches from poor valeting, or bushes etc. You may have a vehicle which deserves to be looked after, and kept in a fantastic condition, or you might just want the shiniest car on your street! Paint correction is also a fantastic choice for owners of “”classic”” or “”show”” cars.

The process of a full paint correction is very detailed and time consuming. Great care must be taken.

Severe damage can be caused if the detailer does not take care, or have the relevant skill and experience. If the paint gets too hot, the polishing pad isn’t positioned correctly, too much pressure is used, or it’s not delivered in a smooth and even fashion, the paint will burn. Once the paint has been burnt, then the only way to repair it is to repaint it, which can be very expensive. We take extreme caution when polishing any vehicle, and train our team to the highest standard, to ensure there are never any issues.

The first job is to fully clean, decontaminate and dry the vehicle. Once this is done the vehicle must be carefully inspected. During the inspection we are looking for various things. We make note of scratches, chips and swirls. These can be easy to see if you take your time. It can be harder to highlight areas which are faded, flat, or heavy. These can be caused by things such as repainting repairs or factory defects. All of these areas will need extra time and care to get the best results.

Once the inspection is complete we can move onto a process known as “”flattening””. This literally means to flatten the paint. You may think the paint is already flat, but in actual fact the top coat or clear coat of paint is porous and bumpy. If you look at it on a microscopic level, it will have peaks and troughs. Sometimes you can even feel it with your fingertips. We do this by using fine grade sand paper. We remove a very thin layer of the top coat of paint, and make the surface very flat. At this point the whole vehicle will look awful with the paint being grey or white. This is totally normal and expected at this stage. We use a heavier grade sand paper on scratches or areas which have poor paint quality. The sanding is completed by machine, and by hand, so all areas are covered. Extreme caution must be taken to prevent permanent damage to the vehicle. If it is sanded too much, the vehicle will need to be repainted. Once the whole vehicle is fully and evenly flattened, we can move onto the next stage.

The next stage is to “”cut”” the paintwork. The purpose of this is to remove the marks, which are created by the flattening process. This is where the vehicle really gets transformed and the colour comes back. We use high quality cutting compounds, various polishing pads, and different sized machines to reach every surface and hard to reach areas.

The third stage is to polish the paint. We use a fine grade polish, with much finer foam polishing pads. Again, we use various sizes and machines to make sure we reach every single inch of the paintwork. This stage gives an unrivaled shine, depth, and body to the paintwork.

The final stage is to use a super fine cut polish. You may think the paint is perfect by this point already, meaning most detailers stop here. However, a final super fine polish is one of the details which separates our services from others. We use the highest quality ultra fine polish with super soft foam pads on orbital polishers. This gives the paint even more shine, even more gloss, and even more depth.

The paint is left so incredible, it is usually better than when it came off the factory line.

5 year ceramic coating

Ceramic coating is a protective layer added to the surface of the vehicle which protects it against the elements, and makes it stay cleaner for longer.

A genuine ceramic coating is a liquid which is made from liquid glass. It is made from SiO2 (silicon dioxide also known as silica), mixed with solvents to make it into a liquid which can be applied to the vehicle. The ceramic coating does not just sit on top of the paintwork, it chemically bonds to the top coat. This process is what makes the coating durable.

We use the highest quality coating on the market, which has a durability of up to 5 years. It is the best possible ceramic coating which can be applied outdoors. This is very convenient considering we are mobile detailers!

The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the paintwork, but the most important factor is the protection. Your vehicle’s paintwork will be protected from dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.

To apply the ceramic coating we first ensure the vehicle is completed clean and free from contamination. Then we perfect the paint by polishing or correcting the paint.

Once the paint is fully prepared we carefully apply the ceramic coating. Extreme care must be taken to ensure the ceramic is applied correctly. Gloves must be worn, to avoid grease from our hands touching the applicator pad. The bottle of coating itself cannot be held by hand for prolonged periods, in case it cures inside the bottle. The correct amount of coating must be applied so a small pipette is used to accurately measure each dose put onto the applicator pad. The cure time is absolutely critical. If the coating is buffed too quickly, the ceramic will not chemically bond properly. If the coating is left too long, the solvents will flash too much, and the whole process of cleaning and polishing will need to be repeated. Not to worry, we are experts in this field and are fully trained with years of experience.

Once the ceramic coating is complete, your vehicle will be ultra glossy, scratch and swirl resistant, protected from the elements and it will be extremely easy to clean for up to 5 years.

Rubber seal protection

Protecting the rubber seals will greatly improve the look and lifespan of these components for up to 2 years

Over time, all rubber will fade and degrade due to the nature of the material. It can spoil the overall look of the vehicle whilst making the components fail.

Our protection restores the original look of the rubber seals, and protects them from water, road contaminants and UV rays.

To apply the protection we first make sure the rubber is perfectly clean and decontaminated. Then we carefully apply the product evenly over the rubber. The product is then allowed to cure properly, and the excess is buffed off with a clean microfiber cloth.

The seals will be left clean, deep in colour, and protected, which is the type of detail which will really bring the vehicle back to life.

Plastic trim protection

Protecting the plastic will greatly improve the look and lifespan of these components for up to 2 years

Over time, all plastic will fade and degrade due to the nature of the material. It can spoil the overall look of the vehicle whilst making the components fail.

Our protection restores the original look of the plastic trim, and protects it from water, road contaminants and UV rays.

To apply the protection we first make sure the plastics are perfectly clean and decontaminated. Then we carefully apply the product evenly over them. The product is then allowed to cure properly, and the excess is buffed off with a clean microfiber cloth.

The seals will be left clean, deep in colour, and protected, which is the type of detail which will really bring the vehicle back to life.

Chrome/metal trim polish

The chrome and metal trim details of the vehicle can become faded and dull over time. It is caused by poor valeting, road contamination and weathering.

The best way to bring these areas back to life is to polish them. We use a polish which is specifically designed for chrome and hard metals. It is very different to polishes and compounds used on paintwork. The pads and tools are also specifically designed for chrome and hard metals. They are shaped and designed for small and intricate areas which are hard to reach.

The trim must be completely clean and free from contaminants. Then we apply a small amount of polish to the correct sized tool for the area. This is via a machine or sometimes operated by hand. You must be very delicate in these areas to make sure you do not damage the surface. You can easily input too much heat with the wrong tool or technique, which will cause irreparable damage. Once the polishing is complete, we buff it with soft microfibre towels.

The trim will be left free from small scratches and swirls, with a bright and shiny look. These small details can really make the vehicle “”pop”” and keep it looking fresh.

Chrome/metal trim protection

Over time the exterior trim components can become scratched and faded due to poor valeting, road contamination and UV rays.This affects the whole look of your vehicle.

If your chrome and metal trims are protected, they will stay looking shiny and brighter for longer.

We use a ceramic coating which chemically bonds to the trim. This is opposed to some coatings which simply sit on top of the material. As the ceramic coating is bonded to the trim, it has a much higher lifespan of up to 5 years. It will protect against water, acid rain, bird lime and UV rays.

Once the trim has been cleaned, decontaminated, and polished, it can then be protected. The product is carefully applied to the trim ensuring all areas are covered. Once the product has cured and hardened, we buff off the excess residue with a clean soft microfibre towel.

The trims will be left perfectly clean, bright, shiny and protected for up to 5 years.

Extras
Soft top clean and protection

Soft top and vinyl roofs are prone to going green over time, especially if the vehicle is stored outside. This will not only spoil the look of the vehicle but can also lead to premature degrading of the fabric, causing leaks.

They go green because of the growth of algae and moss which thrive on the fabric, especially in damp, shaded, or humid conditions. The soft top is made of a porous material which retains moisture, creating a great environment for spores, while dirt and organic debris act as a food source.

To clean the roof, we must use a specialised cleaner. We use a high quality cleaner, which not only removes the algae, but kills any spores to help stop regrowth. Firstly we dampen the roof. Then we soak the fabric in the algae remover. Once it has been left to soak for a short time, we agitate the whole area with a soft bristle brush. We always pay extra attention to areas such as seams, because these are often areas affected the most. We then gently rinse the roof with water, and softly dry it to avoid damaging the material.

To protect the roof we use the very best product on the market. The roof will be protected for up to 12 months. The reason it is so durable, is because it’s designed with nano technology meaning it coats each fibre individually. It repels water, dirt and oils. It also kills 99% of bacteria and helps prevent algae growth.

The roof will be left free from algae, dirt and grime whilst being protected for up to 12 months.

Headlight resoration with ceramic coating

Over time, most headlights and brake lights will turn yellow. It ruins the look of the vehicle but can also be dangerous if the headlight beam is not as bright as it should be.

This is because of oxidisation of the acrylic. The lights are coated in a clear layer to protect the acrylic, but over time this degrades and fails. The acrylic lenses then oxidise when exposed to UV rays from the sun.

To repair this we must remove all of the yellow layer which is on the light. We do this by wet sanding the light. Firstly we use masking tape around the light to protect the surrounding areas. Then we wet sand the light, starting with a coarse grade of 600 grit repeatedly working slowly down to a very fine grade of 3000 grit. If you do not use multiple grades and sanding, there will be obvious scratches left in the light. Once the sanding is complete we use a cutting compound on a machine polisher to remove any fine marks left from sanding. Then we use a fine grade polish via machine, to make the lenses crystal clear.

The best way to coat the lenses is to use a ceramic coating. We use the highest quality ceramic coating on the market which lasts up to 5 years. The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the paintwork, but the most important factor is the protection. Your vehicle’s paintwork will be protected from dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.

The lights will be left crystal clean, which will transform the whole look of your vehicle. The lights will be fully protected for up to 5 years.

Brake light restoration with ceramic coating

Over time, most headlights and brake lights will turn yellow. It ruins the look of the vehicle but can also be dangerous if the headlight beam is not as bright as it should be.

This is because of oxidisation of the acrylic. The lights are coated in a clear layer to protect the acrylic, but over time this degrades and fails. The acrylic lenses then oxidise when exposed to UV rays from the sun.

To repair this we must remove all of the yellow layer which is on the light. We do this by wet sanding the light. Firstly we use masking tape around the light to protect the surrounding areas. Then we wet sand the light, starting with a coarse grade of 600 grit repeatedly working slowly down to a very fine grade of 3000 grit. If you do not use multiple grades and sanding, there will be obvious scratches left in the light. Once the sanding is complete we use a cutting compound on a machine polisher to remove any fine marks left from sanding. Then we use a fine grade polish via machine, to make the lenses crystal clear.

The best way to coat the lenses is to use a ceramic coating. We use the highest quality ceramic coating on the market which lasts up to 5 years. The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the paintwork, but the most important factor is the protection. Your vehicle’s paintwork will be protected from dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.

The lights will be left crystal clean, which will transform the whole look of your vehicle. The lights will be fully protected for up to 5 years.

Engine bay detail and protection

“Engine bays are often the dirtiest area of the vehicle. They get clogged with debris, oil, grease and grime. This can make the vehicle look uncared for, especially when selling it.

To detail an engine bay you must take great care, to avoid damaging any vital components.

For our engine bay detail we start by dampening the whole area. We then spray the area with a material specific cleaner. This will lift dirt, grease and oil. We agitate the dirt with soft brushes in various shapes and sizes. We start with the underside of the bonnet, then move to the engine bay. A detail covers every area under the bonnet.

We then hand polish and restore any areas which are oxidised, damaged or faded.

We then rinse off the area with a low pressure lance. Once it is rinsed, we dry the large areas with a microfibre drying towel, but we use an air blower for other areas. The reason we blow out hard to reach areas is to make sure there isn`t any moisture inside important components such as wiring and switches.

Once the whole area is clean and dry, we can then protect the components and paintwork.

The painted areas are coated with a high temperature ceramic coating. We use the highest quality coating on the market, which has a durability of up to 2 years. It is the best possible ceramic coating which can be applied outdoors. This is very convenient considering we are mobile detailers!

The coating provides a lovely gloss and shine to the paintwork, but the most important factor is the protection. Your paint will be protected from dust, dirt, grime, acid rain, bird lime, UV rays, and unwanted swirls and hazing. This is because it had a hardness rating of 9H on the Mohs scale. The scale only goes up to 10, which means the coating is extremely resistant to scratches and swirls. The chemical resistance is between PH2 to PH12, on a scale of PH0 to PH14. This means it is resistant to most chemicals bar an extremely concentrated acid or alkali. You will never come across these levels with normal use of the vehicle or in day to day life.

Then we apply the coating to the plastic areas. Our protection restores the original look of the plastic trim, and protects it from water, road contaminants and UV rays.

To apply the protection we first make sure the plastics are perfectly clean and decontaminated. Then we carefully apply the product evenly over them. The product is then allowed to cure properly, and the excess is buffed off with a clean microfiber cloth.

The plastics will be left clean, deep in colour, and protected, which is the type of detail which will really bring the vehicle back to life.

The engine bay will be left clean and tidy, and protected for up to 2 years which will keep your engine bay looking beautiful and show you have taken care of it.

Air con sanitisation canister

All vehicles will accumulate germs over time. These germs can hold up in the seats and carpets, but also in the aircon and vent system.

We use a specially designed anti-bacterial fog which is applied via a compressed canister. This kills bacteria and germs from the whole interior of the vehicle. It reaches areas which valeting and detailing cannot. These are areas such as behind vents and inside the air conditioning system.

Firstly we make sure the interior is fully valeted. Then we start the car, and put the airconditioning on full speed whilst circulating the air internally. We then release the fog from the canister. Lastly we quickly close the car door and leave the canister to work around the vehicle for around 20 minutes.

This will leave the interior free from bacteria, viruses and germs.

Contact our experts to book your service

Phone / WhatsApp

07985 240347

Social Media

Facebook: @Scottscarwash

Instagram: @Scottsvaleting